A few maintenance questions

[primal]

Hey guys, I have a few questions. I noticed the other day that occasionally my throttle will stick and not spring back to position. So far I can manually make the throttle return to position, and it doesn't happen all the time. I figure the throttle cable just needs lubing (I've got some 3in1 oil for this purpose), but I'm curious as to whether or not I should check anything else. Hopefully I won't need to replace the throttle cable.

Also, I've noticed that my front brake lever is a bit sticky and also needs some lube. Is there anything I need to be aware of before I remove the brake lever? Also, I'm planning on using some Militec grease. I doubt anyone has used it, but its designed for extreme environments (it was developed for and used by the Army on their vehicles... its even used on some NASA vehicles). Is there anything particularly special about the grease that Suzuki recommends?

[Sarris]

I use WD-40 for lubing my cables & levers (or anything without a grease zerk) with great success. It's very easy because of the straw tube. I'd also check that the throttle return spring on the carb is not broken or has lost it's tension.

:tup:

[Easy Rider]

I'd also check that the throttle return spring on the carb is not broken or has lost it's tension.

:tup:

PLUS.....this can sometimes be a sign that the cables are not adjusted properly. There should be a little slack, similar to the clutch cable. If there is NO slack, it can bind. Sometimes it can be the actual throttle plate inside the carb throat or the rod it's attached to that goes out to the cable. That might require some spray carb cleaner and then a little lube.

I'm a big fan of silicone spray myself. It's totally inert and won't harm teflon lined cables like some solvents will.
Does the GZ have lined cables?? I don't know.

Bottom line is: If you are uneasy about all these things to check/adjust, a shop could probably fix you right up in about 10 minutes, for minimum $$$ if you make an appointment first.

[primal]

I'm not uneasy about checking them, I just wanted to see of there was anything else I should check (like the spring Sarris mentioned).

Thanks for the replies.

[finallyinthesaddle]

I use WD-40 for lubing my cables & levers (or anything without a grease zerk) with great success. It's very easy because of the straw tube. I'd also check that the throttle return spring on the carb is not broken or has lost it's tension.

:tup:


I've heard that WD-40 tends to penetrate pretty well, but doesn't last too long and, since it acts as a cleaner also, can lead to increased [read as "faster"] rust buildup. I'm with Easy... silicone all the way.

[Easy Rider]

I've heard that WD-40 tends to penetrate pretty well, but doesn't last too long and, since it acts as a cleaner also, can lead to increased [read as "faster"] rust buildup. I'm with Easy... silicone all the way.

WD40 contains LOTS of solvents but was not designed to be a lubricant. After it dries, it is actually a little sticky. It's original purpose was to make a protective film on metal to repel water and thus inhibit rust. It does that pretty good. Solvent for cleaning metal, also good. Lubricant, not so good.

If you REALLY care, do a web search for WD40.

[Sarris]

Actually, the WD-40 site does recommend their product for lubricating cables.

THE FIVE BASIC FUNCTIONS:

LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and hold firmly to all moving parts.

CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape, stickers, and excess bonding material.

PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.

PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.

DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits"


This is from the site http://www.wd40.com/faqs/. Please note the first function is "Lubricates"

Not trying to be contrary, just want to get the facts straight. It really is good stuff!!

Sarris

:2tup:

[primal]

Well, if there's one thing I've learned, is that you should never trust the manufacturer of a product to give you REAL advice. ;)

Its the same reason I don't trust the "tests" that Amsoil conducted that just so happens to show their oil at the head of each category.

[Easy Rider]

Actually, the WD-40 site does recommend their product for lubricating cables.

Please note the first function is "Lubricates"

Not trying to be contrary, just want to get the facts straight. It really is good stuff!!



I see nothing in there about cables.......especially ones that come from the factory with a teflon sleeve (still don't know if ours do or not; my guess is not).

Remember the main mission of the source of that information: To sell more WD 40. :)

I never said it wasn't good stuff. I get it for my small farm operation by the gallon......but I don't use it where real lubrication is required. And I don't use it on electrical contacts either, unless I flush it later with alcohol and compressed air.

If you want to see what I mean, put some in a shallow pan. Let it sit out in the hot sun for a couple of days until most of the liquid evaporates. See what you have left.

[music man]

I don't know about never trusting the manufacturer of a product to give you advice, because if you were really that distrusting of them, would you really ever use their product to begin with? That being said, That Amsoil report and other blatently biased reports like it are not reliable in my eyes not just because they (Amsoil) are at the top in those catergorys but that their main competitors, main ones being Lucas and Royal Purple are completely at the bottom in most of them, just a little to convenient if you ask me.


I didnt mean to get off the subject though, WD-40 IS good for alot of things, but I like some of the other people on here

have heard or found out for themselves that it is not the best "lubricant". I think as a temporary lube, it works just fine but it

doesn't seem to stick around long term like silicone spray and other stuff along those lines, which is exactly what you need

on your cables is something that will stick around.


Not a scientific fact, just my humble opinion.



later :rawk:

[primal]

I don't know about never trusting the manufacturer of a product to give you advice, because if you were really that distrusting of them, would you really ever use their product to begin with?

Sure I would. Remember, the R&D department is separate from the marketing department. ;)

[primal]

Alright, I lubed my chain with DuPont Multi-Use Teflon lubricant. When it dries is it pretty much clear? Its a cloudy white when I spray but after its dry I can't really tell if anything is on it. Also, is there an easy way to clean the sprockets without taking the chain off? I got the chain pretty clean with kerosene but the sprocket was still quite oily.

Sheesh, I feel like a real noob right now, but I really don't want to take it out on the road with an under-lubed chain (in case I didn't shake the can enough...).

[Easy Rider]

Sheesh, I feel like a real noob right now, but I really don't want to take it out on the road with an under-lubed chain (in case I didn't shake the can enough...).

About the only way to clean the sprockets is to use a rag and be VERY careful not to move things while your fingers are in there.

Alas, the only good way to tell if have enough of that kind of lube in place is to FEEL the exposed length of the chain......if you can't tell by looking. Yes, it's messy. :cry:

[primal]

Alright, after taking a closer look, it looks (or rather feels) like the throttle return spring is fine. However, the assembly that the two throttle cables attach to (whatever its called) needs lubed. Hopefully it wont require too much disassembly. What sort of lube should I used? Will 3-in-1 do the job, or do I need something different?

Thanks.

[Easy Rider]

However, the assembly that the two throttle cables attach to (whatever its called) needs lubed. Hopefully it wont require too much disassembly. What sort of lube should I used? Will 3-in-1 do the job, or do I need something different?


With a little luck, you shouldn't have to take anything apart.
I'd put a little penetrating oil or WD40 on it first to get it freed up and THEN a drop of oil after a few days.
3n1 should work fine.

If your cables are not adjusted properly, it may APPEAR that the throttle plate rod is sticking when it is, infact, the cables binding.

[primal]

I'll take another look at it, but it sticks when both cables are somewhat slack (I was manipulating the throttle plate rod by hand). I'll still lube the cables since I know they probably haven't been lubed recently, but I'm pretty sure its the throttle plate rod that is sticking.

[Sarris]

Just for grins, you may want to check that the throttle grip housing isn't pushed up too tight to the bar end. Just loosen the (2) housing screws and move it very slightly away from the bar end. It may solve your problem.

Just my second thought.

:2tup:

[primal]

There is actually a small gap between the bar end and the throttle grip. In fact, the only reason I know that is because the bike looks like it was dropped on the right side and the bar end is bent... hmmm, wonder if that could be it? I dunno, it only seems to stick occasionally. I haven't taken much notice, but it seems to stick more when warm (heat of the day or after its been running). Either way I'll check out the bar end.