Has anyone tried a 40 tooth rear sprocket?

[gahmp]

Hello all,
I've had a GZ250 for almost a year now. I love it. It does everything I need it to do. I would however like to take it down the highway at 65-70 MPH without feeling like I'm killing my sweet machine. I have read many posts in which the front sprocket was changed from the stock 15 tooth to a 16 tooth. This would take the gear ratio from 2.733 to 2.5625. I have read a lot of complaints that after the switch the top end speed goes south. If I were to change the rear sprocket from the stock 41 tooth to a 40 tooth it would give me a gear ratio of 2.666. That would fall pretty much in the middle of the differential between a 15 and 16 tooth front sprocket. I'm thinking that the one tooth off the rear sprocket will be enough to keep the bike in it's power band therefore allowing maybe a little extra power at highway speeds while simultaneously reducing the rpm's its kicking out and all the while improving the MPG's. (I know I'm a dreamer) If anyone has tried this mod please share your results.
http://www.postimage.org/gxwtIU9.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxwtIU9)

[Easy Rider]

in it's power band therefore allowing maybe a little extra power at highway speeds while simultaneously reducing the rpm's its kicking out and all the while improving the MPG's. (I know I'm a dreamer) If anyone has tried this mod please share your results.


Welcome!

You didn't tell us where you are......and the riding geography has a good bit to do with it .......and this doesn't answer your question.....BUT:

65-70 is still doable on the flat without a significant headwind with a 16T sprocket, but it takes a while to achieve 70 and you can't maintain that over anything but the slightest hill. It does, however, allow you to maintain 60-65 under adverse conditions (headwind or uphill) in 4th for short stretches. This is my experience with a 180 lb. rider and a large windshield.

I suspect the answer to your question is: NO. Changing the front is so quick and easy I doubt anybody has gone the other route. Is there a reason that you don't want to try that first ??

[Dupo]

A rear sprocket change wouldn't kill anyone. I'd say if you can get one and put it in .... more power to you. No pun intended.

[dan_]

So knowing that i'm completely ignorant to the subject what would happen if you had a 16 tooth front and 40 tooth rear.

[Water Warrior 2]

So knowing that i'm completely ignorant to the subject what would happen if you had a 16 tooth front and 40 tooth rear.
You would want to be going downhill a lot and rarely use 5th gear except under ideal conditions. A 40 tooth rear sprocket might be just the thing. Pulling off the rear wheel is easy. Try it and let us know how it works.

[OC Hoosier]

A 40 tooth rear sprocket might be just the thing. Pulling off the rear wheel is easy. Try it and let us know how it works.


+1!

[Easy Rider]

Pulling off the rear wheel is easy.

Yeah, and Bob tells us that changing your own tires is easy too !!! :biggrin:

One man's food is another's poison. :skull:

[gahmp]

Thanks for the responses. Looks like I may get to be the first to try this one. I found the 40 tooth rear sprocket at http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/ for $53. The item # is 461-40. Their website lists it as being for a 1999 - 2004. I called them today and they said that it will work on current GZ's. My father has been a mechanic for better than 45 years which in my case means that I realize what it means to be a mechanic and that I am not one. It always ends up with excessive cussing and broken stuff. I am fortunate enough to have friends that are good at turning wrenches on bikes. I'm in Northern Indiana so it will be a little while before the weather will allow any significant riding. When I have this mod done I'll let you guys know the results. Does anyone know how to calculate the rpm's it'll be kicking out with the 40 tooth rear sprocket at 70 mph? I don't want to run on here but, I have felt the joy of the seat on long rides like many others on this post. The aftermarket seat choices are slim and expensive. Has anyone taken their seat to a furniture upholstery place to have stiffer foam put in it and re-upholstered?

[Easy Rider]

I'm in Northern Indiana so it will be a little while before the weather will allow any significant riding.

Boy have I got a deal for you!!

If you can wait until (late) spring, I'll give let you ride a 16T to gauge the difference.....before (or after) you go to all the trouble of changing the rear. I'm in Central Illinois and, unless you are in FAR NE Indiana, we could make a good day trip out of it.
....AND.....
I have a spare seat for sale, cheap. I tried the re-upholster route and did exactly the WRONG thing to it; basically am selling it for the pan but the new cover is really nice......although totally the wrong shape for me.

What leads you to believe you need stiffer padding?
I REALLY don't think that is the problem.

P.S. Being in Indiana, I don't suppose you have many hills, so if you don't plan on doing much Interstate riding, then I can't see the point is spending twice the money and at least twice the time changing out the rear for just one tooth. I rode mine to Atlanta and back last year......and did just fine, through the mountains, but NONE on an Interstate.

[mr. softie]

Hey gahmp, about the seat "enjoyment" issue, check out my seat mod, it works for me.

http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1599

[bonehead]

How about a follow up. Did you put the rear sprocket on? If so how did it work? I'm thinking about doing the rear sprocket for the same reason. Did the front and the carb mods but in 5th it just falls on its face.

[Easy Rider]

How about a follow up. Did you put the rear sprocket on? If so how did it work? I'm thinking about doing the rear sprocket for the same reason. Did the front and the carb mods but in 5th it just falls on its face.

Don't know how throughly or carefully you read all the previous posts about the 16T front but I had been trying to emphasize the situations where is is NOT apporpriate to up the gear ratio......by any means, including a rear change.

Riding in situations where "falling on it's face in 5th" is a serious consideration is one of them.
My recommendation is to put it back stock......but if you have the time and the money to try and "fine tune" it, then go for it !!! :cool:

[bonehead]

That's exactly what I am trying to do. The power band just seems to lag off in 5th. It is slow to get to 60-62mph and that it about top end with throttle to spare. The 40t rear might just bring the r's up to where there is a little more power in 5th. But still, I have to justify 50+ dollars and time to do the swap.

[Easy Rider]

The power band just seems to lag off in 5th. It is slow to get to 60-62mph and that it about top end with throttle to spare.

Yes, most of us KNOW that already. Suzuki did a good job engineering the final drive ratio right on the EDGE of the Horsepower limit.

If performance in 5th gear is of primary concern to you......and it sounds like it IS.....then you should PUT THE STOCK 15T SPROCKET BACK ON THE FRONT. Easier and cheaper and guaranteed to work.....unless you have mucked something up in the carbs. :roll:

[Water Warrior 2]

The GZ doesn't have enough engine to spare. Re-gearing on both ends for more speed/lower RPMs will probably put you past the limit for any 5th gear usage unless you are going downhill. I personally think Suzuki got the stock gearing as good as possible without sacrificing bottom end or top end performance with the available power. This wonderful little bike was never meant to run down the highway and keep pace with traffic at higher speeds. City streets, 2 lane black top secondary highways is where it shines and is happiest.

[Easy Rider]

I personally think Suzuki got the stock gearing as good as possible without sacrificing bottom end or top end performance with the available power.

While you and I are in basic agreement here, I think we disagree on the detail.

If you need a bike that will "keep up" on the freeway, then you got the wrong one with a GZ......in ANY configuration. With it's stock gearing, it will BARELY keep you from getting squashed.

With that in mind, I think it is a MUCH better city and back roads machine with a little higher gearing. You can "cruise" in the city in 3rd or 4th....and run it up to 60 if need be to launch you into 5th, which is pretty much useless IF you think you need to go fast.

If you can accept that you aren't going to go fast and stay at that speed (above 65) for very long AND it takes a while to get there..........then the 16T front makes perfect sense. Most who try it love the result.

BUT IT IS NOT FOR EVERYBODY; nobody ever said it was. I've got a hunch that those who can't STAND to loose 5 mph or so on the top end aren't going to be happy with the little beast very long anyway regardless of what you do to it. :cool:

And then there are those who LOVE their GZ but seem to be incapable of resisting temptation.... :shocked:

There still are times I wish I had it back. :cry:

[Blackbird]

In theory, the lower rear sprocket (40T) with a 16T front sprocket should work well as predicted.
My Yamaha 650 (I know, bad comparison) comes with a stock 17T/ 34T sprockets. Many owners are going to a 18T/30T ratio. The R's go down along with the vibrations. Will it work with a GZ? ...

The cost of the sprocket at $52.99 is really high. Plus it is aluminum, not steel. How long will that last? I'd rather have steel.

Is the GZ chain a 520 or a 530? :??:

[Easy Rider]

In theory, the lower rear sprocket (40T) with a 16T front sprocket should work well as predicted.


TIME OUT !!!

Something is wrong with this picture.

I had to go back to the beginning of this thread and get the rear tooth count........
SO......
Increasing the teeth on the front makes the gearing "taller"........
Decreasing the tooth count on the rear does the SAME THING, makes the gearing higher.

Upping the front one tooth PLUS dropping the rear one would make matters even worse (top end loss).

I think the intent was (or should be) using a 40 rear with a 15 front. :tup:

[bonehead]

You know what, that just may work. Funny how THINKING is such a hard process at 50+ years.

[Water Warrior 2]

You know what, that just may work. Funny how THINKING is such a hard process at 50+ years.

That is just because of all the accumulated knowledge and an overworked filing system. You can reboot the system with a pleasant ride in the country and a few twisties for good measure.

[bonehead]

Gz chain is 520

[music man]

In theory, the lower rear sprocket (40T) with a 16T front sprocket should work well as predicted.
My Yamaha 650 (I know, bad comparison) comes with a stock 17T/ 34T sprockets. Many owners are going to a 18T/30T ratio. The R's go down along with the vibrations. Will it work with a GZ? ...

The cost of the sprocket at $52.99 is really high. Plus it is aluminum, not steel. How long will that last? I'd rather have steel.

Is the GZ chain a 520 or a 530? :??:


Yes you are right that is a horrible comparision, if you have something with plenty of grunt to spare, then doing that could dramatically raise the ridability of your bike at higher speeds, (and raise your top speed for that matter) but considering the GZ barely has enough grunt to go "high speeds" in the first place, if you lower the rpm's at higher speeds (on the weak GZ) then you take away the only power the GZ has at high speeds in the the first place. It just simply doesn't have any torque to spare to sacrifice any for higher speeds, there are riding lawn mowers out there with more HP/Torque than the GZ has.

[Blackbird]

In theory, the lower rear sprocket (40T) with a 16T front sprocket should work well as predicted.
My Yamaha 650 (I know, bad comparison) comes with a stock 17T/ 34T sprockets. Many owners are going to a 18T/30T ratio. The R's go down along with the vibrations. Will it work with a GZ? ...

The cost of the sprocket at $52.99 is really high. Plus it is aluminum, not steel. How long will that last? I'd rather have steel.

Is the GZ chain a 520 or a 530? :??:


Yes you are right that is a horrible comparison, if you have something with plenty of grunt to spare, then doing that could dramatically raise the ridability of your bike at higher speeds, (and raise your top speed for that matter) but considering the GZ barely has enough grunt to go "high speeds" in the first place, if you lower the rpm's at higher speeds (on the weak GZ) then you take away the only power the GZ has at high speeds in the the first place. It just simply doesn't have any torque to spare to sacrifice any for higher speeds, there are riding lawn mowers out there with more HP/Torque than the GZ has.

I did not say horrible, I said bad. Bad is dropping your bike and skinning your knee. Horrible is dropping your bike and then realizing your leg fell off. Afterwards, everyone nicknames you Eileen.

By the way Music man ... what is high speed to you?

I think the chain is a 520 don't you?

[music man]

I did not mean that in any kind of derogatory terms whatsoever, I am sorry if it came across that way. And by the way, yes the GZ does have a 520 chain on it.


And high speed to me (on a motorcycle) is whatever the speed limit on a given road is,+10-15mph, that is high speed to me, if you need to go any faster than that, then you are definitely trying to modify the wrong motorcycle, and also need to find a Track where you can get some laps in on, because you don't need to be going that fast on a public road, Period, much less on a motorcycle.


Again I did not mean anything derogatory, I guess using the word horrible was a little extreme.

[Blackbird]

I did not mean that in any kind of derogatory terms whatsoever, I am sorry if it came across that way. And by the way, yes the GZ does have a 520 chain on it.


And high speed to me (on a motorcycle) is whatever the speed limit on a given road is,+10-15mph, that is high speed to me, if you need to go any faster than that, then you are definitely trying to modify the wrong motorcycle, and also need to find a Track where you can get some laps in on, because you don't need to be going that fast on a public road, Period, much less on a motorcycle.


Again I did not mean anything derogatory, I guess using the word horrible was a little extreme.

Speed wise ... I agree, on the x-way Raven gets to 80 and is a little light in the rear at that speed. 70 is fast enough for me when I need to use the x-way. Which is not a lot.
So, when are you buying that sprocket? We need a tester (Guinea pig).

[Water Warrior 2]

In theory, the lower rear sprocket (40T) with a 16T front sprocket should work well as predicted.
My Yamaha 650 (I know, bad comparison) comes with a stock 17T/ 34T sprockets. Many owners are going to a 18T/30T ratio. The R's go down along with the vibrations. Will it work with a GZ? ...

The cost of the sprocket at $52.99 is really high. Plus it is aluminum, not steel. How long will that last? I'd rather have steel.

:??:

An Aluminum rear sprocket will last as long as a chain. Just keep things adjusted and lubed properly. Steel is much heavier and you have more unsprung weight which will lesson the suspension's ability to smooth out the road.

[alantf]

which will lesson the suspension's ability to smooth out the road.

I don't know if the European spec suspension is different to the American/Canadian, but I often feel (especially when riding two-up on a poor road surface) that my rear suspension is non-existant. I've tried different settings, but still end up with a bone jarring thud every time I hit a bit of uneven road surface. :cry:

I don't know if the European spec suspension is different to the American/Canadian, but I often feel (especially when riding two-up on a poor road surface) that my rear suspension is non-existant. I've tried different settings, but still end up with a bone jarring thud every time I hit a bit of uneven road surface. :cry:

My wife (or my daughters, for that matter) and I weigh about 285 pounds together and experience the same thing, even on pretty minor bumps, potholes, etc. This bike suits my needs pretty darn well in every respect except for this one. If I move up to a bigger bike, this will be the primary reason.

Keith

[Sarris]

The ride issue is cheap rear shocks. If you upgrade to an inexpensive pair of Progressive suspension shocks ($250 +/- for a set for the Savage 650 aka S40) it will change the bike dramatically.

I have not done mine yet, but I have a friend that has and the diff is definately noticable.

Also, changing my fork oil at my 12k service has made the FE more compliant as well.

:)

[bonehead]

I've been looking around the posts; has anyone actually gone to a 40t rear sprocket yet. I'd like to hear about it as I am thinking of going to a 40 or 39.

[Sarris]

As the ratio of front teeth to rear teeth is about 1:4, two teeth would theoretically split the differemce between the 15 tooth & 16 tooth front sprocket ratios.

I think you will find the change small, but it also could fine tune the powerband a hare.

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/1850/phpxqwtz5.png (http://www.postimage.org/)


Let us know what you decide.

:)

[KingstonSpeeders]

Oh boy!

You guys do a good job of rallying away from the y/n questions...phew! I better not ask any questions and just watch the parade at my crusing speed. This thread went real far on a short street, LOL!

[Easy Rider]

Oh boy!

You guys do a good job of rallying away from the y/n questions...phew!

OK, here's a y/n question for YOU:
Are you somehow unhappy with the information you are finding on here ??
Your comments would seem to indicate that you ARE.

A LOT of questions just don't have a simple yes or no answer. :roll:

[Water Warrior 2]

And sometimes after all the nattering and off topic stuff we come to a good answer or conclusion. Even the most off the wall comment can often generate a different way of seeing an answer to a problem. Besides it keeps our fingers busy. lol.

[OBryan]

I dropped 2 teeth on the rear sprocket this spring..Personally I love it..It cruises quite a bit easier now at 60 to 65 and also love how in the lower gears it gave me a little spacing So I'm not jamming my shifter up and down as much on the in town driving

[bonehead]

I dropped 2 teeth on the rear sprocket this spring..Personally I love it..It cruises quite a bit easier now at 60 to 65 and also love how in the lower gears it gave me a little spacing So I'm not jamming my shifter up and down as much on the in town driving
Are you running a 16t front or the stock 15?

[Easy Rider]

I dropped 2 teeth on the rear sprocket this spring..
Are you running a 16t front or the stock 15?

15 I would hope. Dropping the rear gives the same effect as raising the front and the 16 front is on the verge of being TOO much......so doing both would definitely be too much.

The 16 front is roughly equal to 3 or 4 teeth in the rear so.........going down 2 in the rear should be about half the effect of going up one in the front; pretty sure that was the objective.

[bonehead]

I dropped 2 teeth on the rear sprocket this spring..
Are you running a 16t front or the stock 15?

15 I would hope. Dropping the rear gives the same effect as raising the front and the 16 front is on the verge of being TOO much......so doing both would definitely be too much.

The 16 front is roughly equal to 3 or 4 teeth in the rear so.........going down 2 in the rear should be about half the effect of going up one in the front; pretty sure that was the objective.
Yah, when I get the money together I think I will order the 39t rear and go back to the 15t on the front. Should still be in the power band and turn the rear wheel a little faster.

[GadZukes250]

Where does one find a 39t rear sprocket?

[bonehead]

Where does one find a 39t rear sprocket?
JT sprockets.com, Sprocketspecialist.com, etc. The actual part# is in an original in the mod. section. IIRC it is 461-40/461-39 at sprocket specialists.

[GadZukes250]

Thanks bonehead. Got the 39 tooth on order just as my 16 tooth front arrived. I'm gonna play with both configurations and see which I like best.

[bonehead]

Thanks bonehead. Got the 39 tooth on order just as my 16 tooth front arrived. I'm gonna play with both configurations and see which I like best.
Let me know how it turns out. I still have'nt been able to afford mine yet. I am reall interested in the 15/39 combo and what it does to top end cruising speed.

[jonathan180iq]

In a little-used part of the forum, there exists a very helpful post about all this stuff.

Possibly the easiest mod that you can do which will have a pretty drastic change to the way your bike performs is to change the final drive gearing.

The final drive of the GZ250 is a simple chain/sprocket combo. The final drive ratio is 2.73. This number is easily calculated by dividing the number teeth on the rear sprocket by the number of teeth on the front sprocket. In our case, since we have a factory sprocket combination of 15 and 41 (15 teeth in the front and 41 in the rear) the calculation would look like this.

41 / 15 = 2.73333333 (or 2.73)
The lower the gearing, the lower the revs. The higher the gearing, the higher the revs.
You'll almost never want to change any sprocket more than one or two teeth sizes in any direction over the factory number.

By comparison, switching over to a 16T front sprocket lowers the final drive ratio to 2.56 (41/16)

Switching between a 15 front and 40 rear would be the PERFECT combination of lowering highway revs while maintaing climbing ability, I would think. (40/15) = 2.666666667 ratio.

What does this mean in practical application?
The 16T front sprocket lowers cruising revs in all gears and allows the lower gears to be used for a longer period of time. However, you will probably notice a drop off in your top speed. While the factory gearing allows the GZ to reach somewhere around 80mph, the 16T front sprocket will lower that to around 70mph. The reason being that the internal gearing of 5th gear has a ratio of .818, which is basically an internal overdrive and seems to make the gear too "tall" for the mighty GZ to handle.


Where can I purchase a new sprocket?

The Suzuki factory part number for a 16T sprocket is 27511-37200
The JT Sprockets part number is JTF 434.16

Sprocket Specialists make both front and rear sprockets for the GZ250.
The front sprockets are available from size 10-16. Part number: 528-(number of teeth)
The rear sprockets are available from size 28-74. Part number: 461-(number of teeth)



How do I change my front sprocket?

http://www.gz250bike.com/viewtopic.php?t=317

[mrlmd1]

Jonathan you are indeed the Lord of the Forum, and welcome back again.
That post was friggin' incredible and right on the money with objective science behind it instead of subjective " I think this", or "in my limited experience, do that".
Way to go! :2tup: :bow:

[jonathan180iq]

Well, there are a couple of places when I said "I would think". But still, thanks.

I spent a lot of time compiling lots of info regarding that type of stuff. It often gets looked over.

[OBryan]

I'm running the stock sprocket on the Front..I had someone msg me asking where I got the new rear sprocket..I'm not sure if my reply made it or not..Laffs...couldn't figure out if it got sent or not..Anyway I'll post my answer here as soon as I find out..I had a guy with a shop order it for me..I remember he said it was from a man in Tenn who made sprockets

[jonathan180iq]

Getting a custom sprocket is certainly one way to go, but you can order one from www.sprocketspecialist.com (http://www.sprocketspecialist.com).

I hope you didn't pay an arm and a leg for it. Mosy custom people that I know waaay over charge.

[patrick_777]

Bikebandit.com has them too.

[jonathan180iq]

I miss that awesome avatar you had of some guy blowing the crap out of another guy with laser cannons and missles and such.

[GadZukes250]

Thanks bonehead. Got the 39 tooth on order just as my 16 tooth front arrived. I'm gonna play with both configurations and see which I like best.
Let me know how it turns out. I still have'nt been able to afford mine yet. I am reall interested in the 15/39 combo and what it does to top end cruising speed.

I just installed the new 39t rear sprocket and I love the shift spacing now for in town. Though to get higher speed, 5th needs a push from 4th to go above 65 but I got it up to 70 against a 6mph wind and minor hills in the country this morning. I think the 40t might have been a better choice though. I don't like the performance of 5th now.

[jonathan180iq]

Your 15/39 combo gives a pretty low final drive ratio. I would think it's better than a straight 16T but based on what you say it sounds about the same. I still would have taken that chance and gone with the 40T rear instead.

39/15 = 2.60 (you)
41/16 = 2.56 (16T)
40/15 = 2.66 (40 rear) Allows a slightly faster "spooling up" than the 16 or the 39[edit]
41/15 = 2.73 (stock)

I thought you might be able to correct this slightly by going with a 14T up front but that would be even more "BUZZY" than the stock ratio. It would come out to 2.78

[GadZukes250]

I read about someone moving the choke about 1/8 in fourth in the forum and it seems to help.
I tried it yesterday and fifth responded. I don't think I'll ever get over 70 with the plexistar fairing. I'm going to go to a bigger jet though anyway to help fifth a little more.

[jonathan180iq]

If you increase your main jet, don't go overboard. That is, don't get one that's TOO big thinking that "bigger is better". You'd actually make it worse by having too rich a mixture.

I'd try just one size up and maybe take that little lip scoop off of the air filter.
Anything more than that will probably be overkill.

Unless you totally remove the stock airbox and go with a pod intake system, there isn't too much "playing with the carb" that needs to be done.

With the 16T front sprocket I could still hit 80mph on the highway. You just have to know how to use the new gearing. That being said, it's well documented that the sprocket change isn't something that you do for top speed. It's for lowering cruising revs and making the "in town" gears last longer.

[GadZukes250]

The more I ride it, the more I am happy with it. Your right. I just needed to get used to the gearing. All good now. I was just worried about getting on I70 and keeping up with traffic. Won't be going that route but once or twice a year. So no big deal.

[jonathan180iq]

That seems to be the case for most people with this bike. It can handle the interstate but it's not an interstate bike.
Most people who spend a lot of time on the highway ride larger displacement bikes anyway.

For what it is, the GZ is great. And the 16T front sprocket make it even more "cruiser-esque"

[GadZukes250]

Ok, I found a solution to my woes. I bought a 750 Shadow Spirit. Fixed it immediately. I can go faster than 70 and the gearing is beautiful. Don't get me wrong though, I still love my GZ.

I now have a 16 tooth front sprocket (never used) and a 39 tooth rear sprocket (less than 50mi) available if anyone is interested.

[JWR]

That's the way to fix your woes!!!

Could you pull the 39?

[Easy Rider]

Ok, I found a solution to my woes. I bought a 750 Shadow Spirit. Fixed it immediately.

Maybe I shouldn't mention this now but........a lot of the Shadow riders end up "adjusting" their sprockets too. Not possible, of course, if yours is shaft drive.

You might find this interesting: http://www.hondashadow.net/forum/

AND....you aren't too far from me; maybe we can hook up next summer.
Our local hangout: http://fellowriders.net/forum/
Just getting started but we have one other Indiana member already.

[blaine]

What about 42-16? That would give you a 262 gear.

[Water Warrior 2]

I still have a 16 tooth front sprocket (never used) and a 39 tooth rear sprocket (less than 50mi) available if anyone is interested.

Yes we know. It is not necessary to flood the site with the same message. Just list the sprocket in "bikes parts for sale".

[GadZukes250]

No harm intended.

[Fish Baseball]

weirdly enough, from reading all of this its leading me to think that one could squeeze a little more top end speed with a 14t front sprocket. Would this be an incorrect asumption?

Making this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JT-Front ... ccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JT-Front-Sprocket-14T-Suzuki-GZ250-99-09-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem335effb2fdQQitemZ22063 7147901QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
a bad move

[blaine]

weirdly enough, from reading all of this its leading me to think that one could squeeze a little more top end speed with a 14t front sprocket. Would this be an incorrect assumption?

Making this
a bad move

Bad move. A 14t sprocket would make 1st & 2ND pretty much useless & it could over rev in 5Th causing engine failure.

:2tup: :rawk:

[bonehead]

Top end is usually accomplished with larger than stock front and smaller than stock rear sprockets.

[Easy Rider]

Bad move. A 14t sprocket would make 1st & 2ND pretty much useless & it could over rev in 5Th causing engine failure.

:plus1:
I think you would be prone to over-rev in ALL the gears.

Top end is usually accomplished with larger than stock front and smaller than stock rear sprockets.

True, assuming that your engine has enough horsepower to handle the higher gearing.......which the GZ really doesn't.....so you get no gain in top end or actually a slight loss.

[Fish Baseball]

Bad move. A 14t sprocket would make 1st & 2ND pretty much useless & it could over rev in 5Th causing engine failure.

:plus1:
I think you would be prone to over-rev in ALL the gears.

Top end is usually accomplished with larger than stock front and smaller than stock rear sprockets.

True, assuming that your engine has enough horsepower to handle the higher gearing.......which the GZ really doesn't.....so you get no gain in top end or actually a slight loss.


aww dammit. Here I was thinking that I may be able to ride comfortably on freeways without having the throttle wide open the whole time to maintain speed..... :drool: