Stupid newbie idiot mistake/dumbass.

[dan_]

So today I changed my oil for the first time ever. Yay! I over tightened he bolt like an idiot.. wayyyyyyyy to much and it stripped. Crap. Well its 76 degrees outside so I decide to ride anyway what the worse that could happen right? Well. I don't recommend it. On my way to work the drain plug fell out. I stop at a stop sign while a nice size puddle of oil starts to form and start going again, rear wheel now covered in oil I fish tail..And recover thinking "wow that must have looked bad ass" I give it throttle again and completely spin out in the middle of the highway luckily it was at about 20 mph and I was in a leather jacket, full face helmet, gloves and jeans.. My converse have seen better days. Any way The only damage to the bike is this nasty scar in the muffler i was kinda under the bike so.. yeah. The engine did not seize. And I learned how not to tighten my drain plug. Now my question. Uhh.. How do I fix my drain plug? Two mechanics I know have said to get a thread kit and put in the next size up drain plug. One of them said he'd help me do it in his shop. Another guy told me to call my suzuki dealer and see what they recommend. One of the guys that recommended a thread kit also recommended a new oil pan altogether. What do you guys think? And don't make me feel to dumb.

[JWR]

Tap and die sets are made for a reason.

Cut new threads, use upsize bolt and washer.

No biggie.

It's just a thang,man.

[Water Warrior 2]

So today I changed my oil for the first time ever. Yay! I over tightened he bolt like an idiot.. wayyyyyyyy to much and it stripped. Crap. Well its 76 degrees outside so I decide to ride anyway what the worse that could happen right? Well. I don't recommend it. On my way to work the drain plug fell out. I stop at a stop sign and start going again, I fish tail..And recover thinking "wow that must have looked bad ass" I give it throttle again and completely spin out in the middle of the highway luckily it was at about 20 mph and I was in a leather jacket, full face helmet, gloves and jeans.. My converse have seen better days. Any way The only damage to the bike is this nasty scar in the muffler i was kinda under the bike so.. yeah. The engine did not seize. And I learned how not to tighten my drain plug. Now my question. Uhh.. How do I fix my drain plug? Two mechanics I know have said to get a thread kit and put in the next size up drain plug. One of them said he'd help me do it in his shop. Another guy told me to call my suzuki dealer and see what they recommend. One of the guys that recommended a thread kit also recommended a new oil pan altogether. What do you guys think? And don't make me feel to dumb.

Yipes, glad you weren't going faster. Not going to beat you up over a stripped plug. Stuff happens even with the best of intentions and experience/no experience. For the repair "I" would go with the guy who volunteered his shop and help. He most likely has the experience and can teach you some do's and don'ts. If that isn't in the cards then I believe the GZ has a replaceable section in the bottom of the engine that the plug screws into. Probably more costly but would have new threads etc.

[Easy Rider]

1) One of the guys that recommended a thread kit also recommended a new oil pan altogether.

2) And don't make me feel to dumb.

1) You lucked out.......probably. If any of those folks would have LOOKED at the bottom of the bike, they would have seen that the drain plug threads into a plate that is, in turn, bolted to the bottom of the engine block. So.....no thread kit, no new "pan", just visit Suzuki and get a new plate, with gasket and drain plug and crush washer........and then find someone who is a little less "eager" with the wrench to install it for you. If you strip THOSE 3 bolts, then you are really screwed.

2) Too late on that one; I think you already beat us to it. :roll: :biggrin:

Now for the bad news:
An engine without oil sometimes siezes AFTER it stops running and cools off. Sometimes the rings don't sieze at all but the bearings melt first.
It might self-destruct after you get it all back together and run it the first time; not likely, but possible.

I really don't think "dumb ass" is an adequate description. :cry:

[dan_]

Now for the bad news:
An engine without oil sometimes siezes AFTER it stops running and cools off. Sometimes the rings don't sieze at all but the bearings melt first.
It might self-destruct after you get it all back together and run it the first time; not likely, but possible.


After I stood my bike up with the engine off a lot of oil leaked out onto the ground still.. like a lot so it was never running with no oil. When it was on the trailer It was still leaking oil. A stopped engine thats hot with no oil can still seize?

Also, what's going to be easier? The new plate thing or the threading thing? Am I going to regret rethreading? The plate seems like its gonna be a pain in the ass to replace. Will i have to take out or jack up the engine? Cause dude i screwed up an oil change if that doesn't tell you how un-mechanically inclined I am i don't think I could give you a better example.. hell.. my driveway looked like that exxon valdeez incident few years back..

[Water Warrior 2]

Dan, sounds like you lucked out if there was still oil in the engine. My suggestion has changed a wee bit for now. Get a dealer to install a new plate on the bottom and ride on. Tell them you want the old plate has a garage decoration and reminder.

[patrick_777]

Yeah, you lucked out.

The part(s) you want are on this drawing: From BikeBandit Numbers 7-13. (http://www.bikebandit.com/showschematic/m9763sch509703)

On the Oil Pump schematic available at this page: Also at BikeBandit (http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gz250-2006/o/m9763)

Looks like the combined price shouldn't be more than $28 plus shipping. Also, you might want to factor in some new oil. As far as replacing it goes, it's plug and play. But buy a torque wrench first, and learn how to use it properly by reading its manual. By that, I mean realize that the GZ torque settings are ft/lbs and some wrenches are in/lbs, so divide/multiply accordingly.

[Water Warrior 2]

RE: torque wrench. Don't get the biggest one on the shelf. First determine the torque and buy accordingly. Probably a 3/8ths inch torque wrench or even a 1/4th inch will do the job. Be sure to use a little Blue Loktite on the bolts for the new plate and they will never stray.

[alanmcorcoran]

Hey dan,

Sorry you had such a shitty weekend. I am glad you didn't kill yourself when you ran over your own oil. Twice.

I am especially glad because if you were dead I wouldn't be able to thank you for making me look like a mechanical genius.

Seriously bro... coulda been me. Go with the plate.

[patrick_777]

Dan,

Read this thread by Primal. He did this exact same thing with success.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1012 (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1012)

[Easy Rider]

A stopped engine thats hot with no oil can still seize?

Also, what's going to be easier? The new plate thing or the threading thing? Am I going to regret rethreading?

Since it appears that most of the oil ran out AFTER the engine stopped, then you are probably OK.

No offense but I think YOU should not do either one!! :roll:

Paying a machine shop to tap would probably end up costing MORE that replacing the plate.......and then you have the problem of finding a bigger plug.........and when they go to tap the hole, they will probably remove the plate anyway.

So, like everyone else, I vote for getting new parts and letting the shop fix it. It is really not a major operation; you gently lay the bike on it's side......or put it on a hoist if you are in a shop.
Parts: $35, Labor: 1/2 hour @ $100 = $50.....plus oil and filter (if you didn't change that before).

If you get out of this for about $100, then you will be very lucky.

[dan_]

On the drawing Patty said.. (haha).. I need parts 7-13.. BUT if I only get 9, 10, 13, and 12. I should be god right?

Heres the linkage..
http://www.bikebandit.com/showschematic/m9763sch509703

7 is something i'm not gonna take off, 8 is screws to that something i'm not gonna take off, and 11 is screws i'm just gonna take out of the old plate. Can I be cheap/recycle or should I spend the extra buck or two and say screw the environment.

[dan_]

Though I have the physique of a god, i meant good.

[Easy Rider]

Though I have the physique of a god, i meant good.

So now let's talk about your God given mechanical ability.........or lack thereof! :poke2:

Yes, you don't need 7,8 and 11.

Oh, wait......based on previous performance.....maybe you do! :crackup

[dan_]

yeah i bought the screws just in case. :-P

[mr. softie]

I always thought checking the screen (#7) was a regular service item. If you remove the exhaust pipes the plate in question is readily accessible. You might consider acquiring a small torque wrench for your future wrenching endeavors, and consulting the manual for proper torque specifications.

[dan_]

Buddies helping me replace the plate today. Anyone know what we should torque the screws going into the plate to?

[JWR]

There is a bolt and torque guide in the downloadable service manual.

It will be toward the end.

I will look and see .

BRB

Edit 7-25 of service manual.

[dan_]

Back on the road. Except i cracked my exhaust :-( My buddy said it was in a place where i really didn't need to worry about it. He said he could spot weld it. What should i do?

[JWR]

Depends on where????

Sounds like your buddy knows what he is doing.

[Easy Rider]

Except i cracked my exhaust

Maybe the title of the thread explains it :biggrin: but how did you manage to do that?
And where is the crack?

[dan_]

When I got to the stop sign at the end of the back road i live on, I stopped. Started to go, and fish tailed. Got all straightend out on the highway giving it no throttle, gave it throttle and spun out complete 360. Oil was all over my back tire. the crack is on the bottom of the exhaust where the two pipes connect. The bike sounds better with the crack. Beefier, like a cambells chunky soup commercial.

[JWR]

You are far enough from the valves that will not hurt the engine.

Remember that it does need to fixed, so it will keep the same back pressure.

Exhaust changes require carb changes.

[Easy Rider]

Remember that it does need to fixed, so it will keep the same back pressure.

Exhaust changes require carb changes.

True in general but something as small as that probably doesn't.

I agree that you probably should get it fixed because the crack will likely "grow" and eventually go all the way around the pipe...........at which time it will sound like crap and might affect the pressure enough that it won't run right.

Oil all over the back tire.......... :??:
STILL ?? :cry:
No, never mind. :roll:

[Water Warrior 2]

Oil all over the back tire.......... :??:
STILL ?? :cry:
No, never mind. :roll:[/quote]


I hear ya Easy. Don't go there. We will just hope Dan has a medical plan.

[dan_]

Man. I think you guys are confused. When the oil plug fell out, i spun out. When we fixed it we found the crack and cleaned the tires. I didn't wreck again. Yet.

[Easy Rider]

Man. I think you guys are confused.

I wonder WHY ??? :roll:

[dan_]

Don't roll your smiley eyes at me sir! Don't you dare! :-P

[Water Warrior 2]

The confusion was caused by your Feb/21 post at 18:46.