Reminder Beep for Turn Signals

[Easy Rider]

More discussion of this in the "Best Mod. I've done so far" thread too.

(Why am I starting a new topic? Because I think the title should be a clear roadmap to what's inside.....and when the discussion strays away from the main topic, a new one should be started.....but that's just me! Does not apply to "off topic" rambling threads as there isn't usually much in there worth searching for !!) ;)

I revised my beepers today.
Total parts cost ~$7.50, 2 each Radio Shack 273-059 beepers.
Total time = 15 minutes (more like 45 in you do it "right")

EDIT: Third time is the charm. The buzzers listed above are STILL not quite loud enough. Will be changing over to the 85 dB model, 273-060, at about $9 for two when time permits.

For easy access to the work area, lift the storage bin OUT (straight up). ( It's amazing what's under there!)
When done, put the bin back in carefully, so as not to snag and break any wires, etc.

Attached one to each side, similar to what others have done but I'm lazy so I just stripped the wires on the buzzers, pulled back the sleeve on the connectors going to the rear lights, wrapped the wire around the bare connector and shoved the sleeve back on (will come back later and solder for long term stability).

Black wire from buzzer goes to black/white wire (ground) on each side. Red buzzer wire goes to black wire on one side and green wire on the other. The buzzers are so light that mounting is not really required. Long term I think I will twist the wires together and nylon tie-wrap the little bundle to the side frame bar.......to take up some of the slack left from the original attachment of the wires with a large black tie-wrap.

I think the volume will be about right; haven't started the engine yet to be sure but my first go was with a smaller buzzer and it wasn't quite enough.

Now, let's see if I can attach a crappy picture from my cell phone:

http://www.postimage.org/gx1U14X0.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gx1U14X0)

Looks like it worked!

P.S. Just a note: 2 buzzers are required because there is no common, flashing, positive wire available. Due to some "creative" wiring by Suzuki, the wire common to both signals changes polarity depending on which side is flashing.

ANOTHER EDIT: Check your installation after a few rides. I found mine were not secured tight enough and the vibration had started rubbing the insulation off one wire.

[jonathan180iq]

3 pictures posted in a year.... Is that a personal best? :tongue:

Looks like a pretty solid write-up, Easy. Nice work.

PS:
Is that a personal note on what oil you last used?

[Easy Rider]

3 pictures posted in a year.... Is that a personal best? :tongue:

PS:
Is that a personal note on what oil you last used?

Well, if you've seen one GZ, you've pretty much seen them ALL. :)

That's a reminder for old farts......so I don't have to fish out the owner's manual at every oil change! :tup:

I also have tiny little number stickers by each valve stem.....for a similar reason.

[bigwonton]

P.S. Just a note: 2 buzzers are required because there is no common, flashing, positive wire available. Due to some "creative" wiring by Suzuki, the wire common to both signals changes polarity depending on which side is flashing.

In that case, you should be able to use a relay and cut it down to one buzzer. If you use an old mechanical/solenoid relay with no diode, you should be able to pull the contact closed with either polarity input. Just hook the respective buzzer wires to ground / normally open and the +12V to the common.

[Easy Rider]

In that case, you should be able to use a relay and cut it down to one buzzer. If you use an old mechanical/solenoid relay with no diode, you should be able to pull the contact closed with either polarity input. Just hook the respective buzzer wires to ground / normally open and the +12V to the common.

I can see you need a refresher in K.I.S.S. :lol:

Or in my case it would be lazy old fart syndrome. :roll:

It could be done with a diode bridge too.......and you probably could find the flasher relay down in there somewhere and find a single lead that would work on the bottom of the socket that you need to stand on your head to get to.......

***BUT***

With the price of a second buzzer being only ~$3.50, none of the other options are likely to be that cheap, it's guaranteed that they won't be that easy, they probably are more prone to failure and more difficult to remove if you change your mind.

The lazy (simple) solution often IS the best !! :tup:

[bigwonton]

In that case, you should be able to use a relay and cut it down to one buzzer. If you use an old mechanical/solenoid relay with no diode, you should be able to pull the contact closed with either polarity input. Just hook the respective buzzer wires to ground / normally open and the +12V to the common.

It could be done with a diode bridge too.......and you probably could find the flasher relay down in there somewhere and find a single lead that would work on the bottom of the socket that you need to stand on your head to get to.......



Yes, but can you accept the two diode drops from a full-wave rectifier? :neener:

Sigh, I often have to remind myself of K.I.S.S. (and I resemble that last S alot!)

[Easy Rider]

Yes, but can you accept the two diode drops from a full-wave rectifier? :neener:

Sigh, I often have to remind myself of K.I.S.S. (and I resemble that last S alot!)

What? "Two diode drops" ??? :??:

If you're talking about the forward resistance of the two active diodes in the bridge, it would be on the order of tenths of a volt (or less) and the buzzers are rated to operate down to about 4 volts.

(Or maybe the second part comes into play ???) :lol: :cool:

[bigwonton]

Yes, but can you accept the two diode drops from a full-wave rectifier? :neener:

Sigh, I often have to remind myself of K.I.S.S. (and I resemble that last S alot!)

What? "Two diode drops" ??? :??:

If you're talking about the forward resistance of the two active diodes in the bridge, it would be on the order of tenths of a volt (or less) and the buzzers are rated to operate down to about 4 volts.

(Or maybe the second part comes into play ???) :lol: :cool:

Yes, I was just being facetious (I was hoping the "neener" would communicate that clearly).

:)

[5th_bike]

If you're talking about the forward resistance of the two active diodes in the bridge, it would be on the order of tenths of a volt (or less) and the buzzers are rated to operate down to about 4 volts.

A regular silicon diode drop is typically 0.6 volts. Germanium, 0.2 V.

I switch the turn signal off quite consistently (I also used to have Citroen 2CVs that didn't have the signal auto-cancel...) otherwise I would make one with two diodes, one each off each wire from the signal switch to the signal lights, preferably somewhere near the saddle (tap off wires to the rear signal lights) to one piezo buzzer. And I would try to include a relay such that the buzzer would only beep when in gear, not when in neutral.

[Easy Rider]

otherwise I would make one with two diodes, one each off each wire from the signal switch to the signal lights, preferably somewhere near the saddle (tap off wires to the rear signal lights) to one piezo buzzer. And I would try to include a relay such that the buzzer would only beep when in gear, not when in neutral.

Let's see.......with only 2 diodes, would that light both turn signals together ???
Too lazy to draw it out.......'cause mine is working and I don't care! ;)

I have discovered, though, that when mounted under the seat, the buzzers I got are not QUITE loud enough. I think the next size bigger would be perfect..........but at this point, I'm not likely to spend the $7 to find out.

[5th_bike]

OK I'll try:

L ------|>----P------<|------R

L = wire between switch and left turn signals
R = wire between switch and right turn signals
(don't cut these wires, just tap off them)

--|>--- = wire and diode

P = red (positive) wire of piezo buzzer. Connects to the 'downstream' side of both diodes.

Black piezo buzzer wire goes to ground.

OK I'm too lazy now to draw how I would do the relay to keep it quiet when in neutral.

[douglaskinney_phd]

Great Idea. I put a 95 db siren set under the seat on my bike. Works well in town but on the highway you still can't hear it. But then on the highway.....who needs signal lights!!!! Just Kidding.

[i2kdave]

I tried this and I can't hear a thing unless the bike is idling. Even then, it's not very loud. If I take the seat off and cup my hand around the buzzer, it sounds a lot louder, but that doesn't really help. :tongue: Anyone else have trouble with this?

[patrick_777]

What dB rating of piezo speaker did you use? You might want to try reversing the wires on them also.

[i2kdave]

What dB rating of piezo speaker did you use? You might want to try reversing the wires on them also.

I used the 273-059 76 dB buzzers.
I wired them as described in the first post, but I'll try reversing them if you think that will make them louder.

[Easy Rider]

What dB rating of piezo speaker did you use? You might want to try reversing the wires on them also.

I used the 273-059 76 dB buzzers.
I wired them as described in the first post, but I'll try reversing them if you think that will make them louder.

CRAP! :cry:
I am embarassed. Thought I went back and changed that. Sorry.

I too found that 76 dB isn't loud enough. Should probably get the 85 dB model, 273-060. There are louder ones but I suspect they would be obnoxious when standing still.

I will now go back and change the original post.
ANOTHER EDIT: Check your installation after a few rides. I found mine were not secured tight enough and the vibration had started rubbing the insulation off one wire.

Also for anybody who has done this already:

[i2kdave]

CRAP! :cry:
I am embarassed. Thought I went back and changed that. Sorry.

I too found that 76 dB isn't loud enough. Should probably get the 85 dB model, 273-060. There are louder ones but I suspect they would be obnoxious when standing still.

I will now go back and change the original post.

no problem, at least they weren't expensive :biggrin:
so the 273-060 buzzers are loud enough?

[Easy Rider]

no problem, at least they weren't expensive :biggrin:
so the 273-060 buzzers are loud enough?

That is an ASSumption, as I haven't actually tried them yet. :roll:

Moving them around a bit might help with the sound projection too. They draw almost 0 current so the wires can be extended to any length desired.

PS Don't bother switching the wires; they are polarity sensitive. Switching the wires results in ZERO dB! :biggrin:

[patrick_777]

PS Don't bother switching the wires; they are polarity sensitive. Switching the wires results in ZERO dB! :biggrin:

It was just a thought.

:roll:

[Easy Rider]

no problem, at least they weren't expensive :biggrin:
so the 273-060 buzzers are loud enough?

That is an ASSumption, as I haven't actually tried them yet. :roll:


OK, so here I am talking to myself again! :roll:

Haven't got the louder buzzers yet and had a different idea a few days ago.
If I can find some LEDs that will work at 12V. (maybe with a resistor added), I might experiment with a "light extender" this winter.

The idea is to tap into the bottom of the socket with the signal light in it (pretty easy, I've done that before) and then run a thin speaker wire up to something like my windshield bracket and mount a couple of LEDs high enough that you would notice them even in the daylight. If that works, you wouldn't need buzzers at all. The buzzers can get kind of annoying when you are sitting still. Need 2 LEDs connected with opposite polarity because of Zuki's wierd wiring of the indicator light.

[Badbob]

The idea is to tap into the bottom of the socket with the signal light in it (pretty easy, I've done that before) and then run a thin speaker wire up to something like my windshield bracket and mount a couple of LEDs high enough that you would notice them even in the daylight. If that works, you wouldn't need buzzers at all. The buzzers can get kind of annoying when you are sitting still. Need 2 LEDs connected with opposite polarity because of Zuki's wierd wiring of the indicator light.

If you put them on the outside edge of the rear view mirror you could see them and so could the guy behind you.

My local Harbor Freight Store has 12v LED strips that might work right out of the box.

This place might have something you can use.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/

[Easy Rider]

If you put them on the outside edge of the rear view mirror you could see them and so could the guy behind you.

My local Harbor Freight Store has 12v LED strips that might work right out of the box.

This place might have something you can use.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/

My initial thought was to keep the wires as short as possible and the lights small but...........

That sounds like a good idea; will have to study on it a bit.

Thanks for the sources for LEDs. Got a HF right here in town. :)

[primal]

Has anyone seen this?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... urn+signal (http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2002171/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2002171/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10111/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=turn+signal)