My 99 Gz250
 

Hey guys/gals,
Picked up a 1999 Gz250 for $800. No spark.
Read most of what I could find on here about that problem.
I charged the battery for a few days with trickle charger.
sprayed the ignition switch with contact cleaner,ran the switch
back n fourth a bunch and still not starting.
Am I reading correct and new ignition switches are about $180-225?
Can I install a resistor in the wires after they exit the switch?
Should I bypass the side stand switch with a plain jumper?

I knew the PO and He took good care of the bike. It ran good before He said the spark quit.

I'm just getting started on this project.

Just how picky is this mo-chine about having to have a hot battery?

Thanks
RK

Ok ordered a new OEM ignition switch from Suzuki ($140, along with an oil filter and gasket and crush washer for the drain plug. Are the turn signal bulbs replaceable with 12v auto bulbs? like 1156/57's? Dual and single filament? Or are they a special wattage?

I don't know about most of your questions..... but I can say yes to the bulbs question. Those are the right ones.

Thanks!

Does the starter turn the motor over when you press the start button? If all of the lockouts are functioning properly (side stand, run switch, ignition switch, clutch switch) the motor shouldn't turn over if one is out of position. If the motor turns over but you have no spark you need check the pick up coil, ignition coil and igniter box. See the attached flow chart for troubleshooting the ignition. I would first check the ignition coil resistance on the primary and secondary sides.

If it chugs, but won't fire, this sometimes happens with mine. Something as simple as turning off the key, then back on, usually does the trick. Dunno why this happens, but it does. :hmm:

Yep....Mine done it every once in a while the whole 3 years I had it.

DerbyDave,
Yes the engine turns over just fine. Thank you I will check the resistance. and report back

should I get continuity thru the sidestand switch? I unplugged it and using a vom meter I cannot get continuity when the switch is closed. guess I need to jumper that to see if its preventing spark.
I'm getting 13.8v at the battery and about 12.6 on the orange wire connected to the coil with the key sw on, but no spark when turning the engine over.
In the old days if you had 12v going to the coil and no spark you replaced the coil.

It looks like according to the wiring diagram that when the stand is in the up position it should complete the circuit. It activates a relay under the seat. If the transmission is in neutral it shouldn't matter though what the position of the side stand is, the bike should still start.

well I jumpered the side stand switch at the connector so the circuit should see it as closed/up since I cant get any continuity thru the switch. I'm just trying to eliminate things one at a time to get spark.
I hooked up a peak voltage adapter/reader to my multi tester and at the cdi plug +to green and - to blue I'm reading 3.34v during cranking.
Getting the same reading at the pickup coil 2 wire plug between green to blue wire as well.
the confusing part is the manual says 5v but not that it should read less or more.

more resistance measuring is needed between the coil primary and secondary however I'm begining to think the cdi went south. I dont have another one to "try" just to see.

I can tell you the 3 wires coming from the stator windings are not showing a ground. I just dont know if they are not producing enough voltage to generate the correct spark or a spark at all. Further troubleshooting/research on the voltage reading I'm getting is what I need. The PDF manual I printed from seems to point in the direction of, that if the reading is less than 5v to replace the generator.

You might be right on the CDI box. Unfortunately there does not seem to be much information in the manual regarding testing it's operation.

where is a good source for a cdi purchase? The dealer wants $350 or so. Is there a website that sells OEM for less than that?

ebay

really? Ebay for a new oem?

No, used. I don't know if I would be buying a new part unless I was 100% certain it would fix the problem. For new stuff I use www.suzukipartshouse.com

Ok new information from the P.O. He says He tried a known good cdi from a second Suzuki 250 he bought but it made no difference. Still no spark. Going to try a new spark plug before going further. Also it looks like if the side stand switch is closed or up I should have continuity between E and D


C to A or B to A should show something as well. As long as you go thru the diode in the correct direction +c to -A or +b to -a does that sound/look correct?

Try a good blast of aerosol contact cleaner on the side stand switch, and work the stand a few times. See if that makes any difference.

I got my local stealership to match suzukipartswarehouse and came down off $97 to 65 for a new sidestand switch. I ordered that and a new NGK DR9EA spark plug. wont be in until next Wednesday 12/13/17. So, we shall see. If the switch makes no difference I'm going to try the relay next.

finally got the new switch and spark plug now just need free time to install them.
MuHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! never happen right? Free Time what Am I thinking?

Free time. what is that?

ok installed new kickstand switch. No Joy. still no spark. Battery next I reckon. Then if still dead I'll have to spend the big bucks on a cdi.


New Ignition Switch
New side stand switch
New spark plug


Took kill switch apart visual check looked clean no corrosion sprayed with electric cleaning solvent.


Must pull clutch lever for starter to engage
If kill switch in "off" mode engine does not turn over


Clutch lever pulled in, kill switch "on". Side stand up. Engine spinning, No spark.


Maybe I should order a side stand relay?

By pass the side stand switch with a jumper wire & see if you got spark than......Save buying a relay for nothing.

Have you gone through all the steps in the flow chart I posted earlier? I attached the pages for testing the pick up coils.

yes I have a peak voltage adapter. I'm reading 3.5V I think. its consistant on both points. The stator is not grounded. The coils are within the resistance value but they are getting power yet no spark.

Okay new battery still no spark. Relay then coil time.

Ok. Do you have a digital mulitimeter?
Disconnect ign coil.
Ohm low range between the two connectors that go to the harness.
Should be less than an ohm IIRC
Ohm between either of those two and the disconnected spark plug wire.
Should be 1 or more K ohm.

Now switch your DMM to a high ohm range.
Measure engine case to tip of spark plug (no coil) and no fingers touching.
Should read nothing.

I need a new digital meter. My old D'arsonval wont measure ohms for some reason. Guess its too dang old. Shucks I've only had it 30 years. Good 'Ol sears craftsman.

Any ideas on where to order a new meter?

Sears 30 bux good enough.
I use a fluke 83 which is to much for work.

Success!!!!

Bike is running!! A little rough but I'm sure the carb needs attention after sitting for 2 years or so.

OK what did I do?
I originally held the new kickstand switch closed in my hand and my wife held the clutch in and hit start switch while I held the spark plug against the engine with my other hand.

Apparently the kickstand switch must be grounded to the frame through the mount bolts. I had given up and reassembled the parts and was loading it on my trailer to haul to the stealership. I figured what the heck one more try.... BAM! cough cough sputter rooomazooom zoom!!! HOLY SPARK BATMAN!!!

Since I had an appointment I went ahead and took her in to see the doctor.
turns out the petcock is fubar which I didn't know and the front pads are wornout which I didn't look at either. Was told the chain is rusty but an overnight oil soaking should cure that. We plan on using it very slow around 30mph max for a week. I think it will last.

They wanted 750 bucks to go thru the carb, put new petcock on and new chain. I said No thanks. I can do that :-)

Awesome! glad you got it figured out.

You can get a petcock rebuild kit and a carb rebuild kit for about $25 each on ebay. The GZ carb is easy to rebuild.

Yes! I've ordered the carb kit and petcock kit already!

This little suzieQ ,as my wife has named her, was befuttling me bc everything else was checking good. Nothing was pointing anywhere.

It feels like some of the weight has been lifted off my shoulders ya know?
Ahhh where's my beer?

Thanks for all the suggestions and comments hats off to you all !!

rebuilt the petcock $18! Not $120 the stealership wanted! Easy peazy too, just had to pull the delicate little diaphragm thru the center hole in the plastic divider. lined up the pins and screwed it back together! New big washer with thru holes and an o-ring.


Question though. Got message saying the carb kit needed a part number. I thought it was on side of carb 13f3 or something. How do you order a carb kit with no part number? Minkuni for sure cast into body on one side. Is it just the mm dimension of the engine side opening?

This is what I used on mine and it runs great. I didn't need a part number.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-99-0...QAAOSwA~VaHFOj

Well decided to just take the carb apart, removed all plastics and plugs including the mixture screw plug. Mine was rubber btw. Boiled the body in a capful of solvent in my lymans heated sonic bullet brass cleaner. Blew out all the passages with compressed air,reassembled it. Got it mounted back on SuzieQ, started her right up warmed it up and adjusted the mixture and idle by ear. Then test rode her down the block and back then my wife got on her and I got out my Heritage and off we went on a back road ride for about 1/2 hr !!!!
wish I could post a picture. She looked like a kid in a candy store with a crisp one dollar bill to spend!!!