Floorboards
I've been obsessing about floorboards nearly as long as I've had my little GZ, and yesterday I finally did something about it. I had gone down to the local dealer - they sell both Honda and Suzuki - to see if they had anything close to fitting a GZ that wouldn't take much modification. I came home with a pair of passenger floorboards for a VL800 Intruder. The Suzuki part number is 99950-70278.
http://upload2.postimage.org/542121/100_0137.jpg The bracket, however, is too wide to fit where the peg fits, and the bracket must be shaved off. http://upload2.postimage.org/542144/100_0138.jpg I removed the floorboard from the bracket (2 bolts on the bottom) and used a bench grinder to shave down the bracket so it would fit the peg mounting. Then I repainted the now shiney portion of the bracket so it matched the black of the rest of the bracket. Here's a comparison of one finished bracket and one original. http://upload2.postimage.org/542197/100_0142.jpg Reattach the board to the bracket. I used a dab of LockTite to make sure nothing vibrates loose. The pegs are easy to remove. There's a circlip at the bottom of the mounting bracket that must be removed (don't lose it!) and then you remove the small peg which runs through the bracket. Remove the peg and mount the board using the original mounting peg and circlip. http://upload2.postimage.org/542266/100_0140.jpg http://upload2.postimage.org/542271/100_0144.jpg Now there wasn't enough room between the front of the board and the shifter for me to stick my toe in to shift. (Honey? Can I have a heel/toe shifter for my birthday?) I fixed this by raising slightly the shifter. There's a small bolt to remove, then pull the clamp off, arrange it where it needs to be, and slide it back on. You can check it before you put the bolt back. I couldn't find a good pointer, so I'm using an orange paint stick as a pointer to it. http://upload2.postimage.org/542333/100_0146.jpg Now there's room enough. http://upload2.postimage.org/542351/100_0147.jpg Right now, these boards do NOT tilt up like the original pegs do. The bottom of the bracket is square and not rounded. However, it would be easy to make them tilt up by simply griding the bottom corners round and taking a bit off the top to give some clearance. I will probably do this later. I also didn't take any clearance measurements, and apologize for that. I'll take care of that as well in a later post. Yes, they're comfortable!! Just wish I had that heel/toe shifter.... |
Nice write-up. How is ground clearance?
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Thanks, Jonathan! You take better pictures than I do, though.
:tup: Anyway, the bike, when level upright in riding position, has about 7 1/2" clearance between road and the back "drag nut" (see the last picture, back and bottom of the floorboard) of the floorboard. Leaning over, I can go much more than 45 degrees before the pedal touches, and I believe at that point, there wouldn't be any tire under me anymore anyway. One thing to note is that the floorboards stick out about 2 inches LESS than the stock pegs. This is not due to the mount, just the fact that the floorboards are about 2 inches more narrow than the pegs, if that makes sense. That's why there's so much clearance when leaning the bike over. I had planned to shave off the corners that fit inside the mounting bracket so that the pedal would fold up if hit, but I don't think it's necessary. |
That pretty cool, man.
I like how your write-up follows more of a "guide" approach. :2tup: Listen, while you were down there, did you happen to brainstorm any ideas of how one could move their pegs (or floorboards) forward to increase legroom? I've been thinking about gaining maybe an inch or two up front to stretch my legs out a little more. Let me know, Jonathan |
I did try to think about how to move out the controls a bit, but didn't come up with anything. Didn't give a thought about moving the pegs, though, sorry. You are a bit taller than I am, though, and I could see where you might want a couple extra inches for your legs. Before you do that, though, find somebody with some floorboards. You may find that they're comfortable enough that you don't need the room. I was amazed at how many foot positions are provided with these small boards. Now I need to start saving for me new seat.
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Hey Mike,
You need to start selling this mod. I bet there would be a few people out there who would buy them :-). Some of us dont have bench grinders and are not very good at doing these types of mods :-( later |
Sell them? No way! But if you get down this way again and you want some, we'll install them for something to do.
Besides, I'm still not happy with the shifter. It's too far up and now needs to be pulled back instead of up. Had to find a new way to shift. I really need to figure out how to build a heel shifter add-on. Got any ideas? |
My suggestion: Get a shifter from another bike thats a close fit and have it resplined. (I think thats what its called.) A machine shop should be able to do this for you. You might even be able to find one that fits.
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I'm beginning to believe that there's nothing similar to a GZ-250. EVERYTHING requires modification. And when you can find a part (16T sprocket) it's then discontinued. I don't understand.
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I promised that I'd show you all how far it leaned over before the floorboards touched the ground. After much musclebuilding (yeah, right) and some luck with the camera, here it is.
http://upload2.postimage.org/578489/Lean.jpg I think this does a decent job of illustrating how much clearance you have with these things. Much more than the stock pegs! |
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I'm thinking I'll look at it as an opportunity to buy a Kawasaki or Honda. Maybe even a Harley. Parts might be expensive, but at least they make the danged things.
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I can't lean that much without losing my feet on the road... |
HE- MAN!!!! Thanks for the photo. This is a great demonstration. You're right, too. We'll never get the bike leaned over that far.
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Of course, those curbs can still come out and "bite" you. Still chuckling about the "He-man" - notice I've got the handlebar resting on my knee? Next time, I'll get the 8 year old across the street to hold it up. I think he's stronger.
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Jonathan, the 250 should easily lean that far on the right road surface.
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Re: Floorboards
Hi Boys, I know this post is from wayyyyy back in 2007, but it fits my "needs" lol. I am super uncomfortable with my pegs. I am only 5'6", but I get crampy with my knees bent...as it is, with all of my cars through the years, I drive with my toe tips...prefer my legs stretched out. EVENTUALLY I dream of having crash/highway bars and pegs....but will still want to move my stock pegs and shifter forward, and I don't know...they just seem close in, and the size/shape is wonky to me....God I am a whiner, aren't I? :poke2: :crackup :crackup :crackup
This is one of the reaasons too that I am considering sculpting my seat....I feel as if I slide forward in my seat...need it more curvy for my curves...and higher in the front than the back. :biggrin: :twisted: :biggrin: |
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viewtopic.php?f=9&t=879 :cool: :) |
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I see if I can find an example of painful and almost perfect seats for my Vstrom. The biggest difference I have noticed with a Corbin seat is the posture and hip position. A similar shape on the GZ might make a tremendous difference to your comfort. |
Re: Floorboards
Tractor seat shaped is the exact thing I was thinking of....in fact I have two old rusty ones hanging in my laundry room! Think I can pad them and retro-fit them to the GZ????? :crackup :crackup :crackup :crackup
But seriously....I am realllllly good at sculpting...and can already see the shape that I need...not much different than any other "thing" that I may sit on...I'm kind of excited to do it! :tongue: Probably pull out some of my buffalo leather "scraps"....can't bear to cut into my full elk hide :shocked: have a few different ideas swimming around in this crazy brain of mine...also have deer, goat and cowhide leathers, then about 20 different fur on hides too. Howzabout a SKUNK hide seat?!?!?! :jawdrop: I also found one of the articles on "how to" (maybe here, maybe elsewhere) using the gel pad wrist rests for computers as padding....I'm just going to be uber picky about a perfect smooth shape...always am picky about that kind of stuff. :retard: |
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Be forewarned. Gel heats up like a frying pan in the sun. Gel material is a heat sink and soaks up sunshine and body heat very well. A sheep skin over a gel seat seems to work well though.
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Ooooooohhhhh.... :drool: that's all I would need in the hot Florida sun...while sitting at stop lights on the pavement...I'm waiting for my boots to melt to the ground already and it's not as hot as it will be in a few months...all I need is my arse melted to the seat too! :shocked: |
Re: Floorboards
A few puffs of talcum powder in your britches will help on a hot day. On a longer hotter ride my boots, britches and gloves get some powder. Armored mesh riding pants might be a dandy way to keep cooler in your location.
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Ewwww....no so sure I can do powder...doesn't it "cake up" on yah, mixed with sweat? :puke: :crackup |
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SpiritOaks - I digress here. Look up an old member on here, Sarris. He's in New Port Richey, maybe 25-30 miles from you. He can give you more, personal, info on this bike than anyone and he may help you out with all sorts of questions.
And we all like smooth, clean, slidey dry butts. |
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ROFL!!! Funny thing to picture! And thanks for the suggestion....I will definitely look him up! And Warrior...glad we're makin' no cakes here! |
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Susan, just Goggle "Anti Monkey Butt Powder". Much better than regular talc or so they say but either will work well when sitting on a bike during a warmish ride.
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Ahhhh...I've heard of that stuff! Thanks! :biggrin: And back to Sarris for a moment....I realized that he also drives a Scion toaster, just like me! Only his is first gen...mine second. :rawk: |
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true, the bassist of my band uses it for his sweaty palms, works like a charm. and you won't have to worry about your butt looking like a monkey.
:rawk: :skull: the fluffster :skull: |
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