Brake light and tail light separate fuse?
 

my brake light works fine but my taillight fuse keeps blowing. I also don't have speedometer backlights.

I did do a front signal mod this weekend but only touched the signal wires could that be connected?

The signals do work as does brake lights. When replacing the blown fuse it immediately poppa when I turn the key.



Thanks

Sounds as though you have a +ve to ground fault. Could you possibly have got the wrong wire grounded when you did the mods?

Very likely. My new turn signals (front) only came with two wires and coming off of the bike are three. I understand the stock lights had a dual running light and that's where the third wire comes into play. So I played with different wire combinations and finally got the signals to work... Te running lights don't.


What was strange to Me during the mod is the wire colors coming off of the bike were tre same on both sides . The left side hoax GRAY/GREEN/BLACKWHITE. and the right side had BLACK/WHITE/BLACKWHITE.... I'm at work now so I'm not sure how I have them wired in but it took some guessing to get the blinkers working.



Which color is the ground? Is it feasible to even use the blinkers with just two wires?

ground is black/white.
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The indicators are +ve and ground. If you haven't got running lights, then one wire each side is not used. With running lights, you'd use that spare wire and the common ground.

Thank you for the diagram. I plan on tackling this tommorow after work I just want to double check my understanding.

Since I do not have running lights I will only be using 1 of the 3 wires to conect to the wires (2) off of the aftermarket signals.

The B/W is the ground wire and I need to ground it to the frame?

I will have 1 unused wire on each side?


I appreciate your input, electrical issues have always stumped me.... it was an electricla bug that killed my scooter and got me onto the gz!

The bikes signal lights have 3 wires for the front signals. You will need to use 2 of these wires to get your new signals to work. One is the ground and the other comes from the flasher to make the signals flash. Get a test light(any cheap one will do) and find which wires have power. Turn on the key and your signal light. Clip the ground wire for the test light to the bike and use the pointy end of the test light to find the running light and signal light wires. The one with no power will be the ground of the bike harness for the signals. After you determine this, then cover or tape up the running light wire for safety. Two wires are left, connect them to the new lights. Don't hurry, take your time and all will work as planned.

You can test the test light for proper operation using the battery terminals. I have always done this to avoid frustration due to a faulty test light. Had the same test light for 45 years and never a failure.

Thank you both alantf, and water warrior2.

The diagram was very informative and it was cool to see the wires simplified. They always look so daunting in the bundles.

And those instructions.... were perfect to a T. Im now looking good with my mods, and fully functional once again. Thanks.

Heh heh. Yup, a bundle of wires can be frightening. I started out knowing nearly nothing but a little help made things go smoothly. Adding relays for extra equipment was beyond me for a long time. It takes time, sometimes lots of time to do something correctly and professional looking but it is worth the effort. I had a lot of fun and a sense of accomplishment when working on Lynda's M-50. She wanted heated grips, an air horn, driving lights, power point and an outlet for heated gear. Mission accomplished. I made a separate auxilary fuse panel with relays for each item. Everything was under one side panel mounted on a piece of plexiglass(nonconductive)for safety. None of the bikes OEM circuits were touched or modified. That way there would be less hassle if anything added went south and wouldn't affect the original wiring. One heavy positive wire from the battery to the auxilary panel and one heavy common ground wire going back to the battery. Using different colored wires made things that much nicer in the long run.