help with debaffle
 

can anyone post a cross section drawing of the muffler and baffle?
the Vulcan was easy to debaffle simply by cutting through the end plate.
I would like to know how the moise baffle is aatached inside the stock exhaust on the GZ.

baffle removal
 

here is a link to a picture of a baffle from a 800 after removal

http://www.ipass.net/dmvinson/baffle2.jpg

here is a link to the site that showed me how to do that baffle removal

http://www.ipass.net/dmvinson/pipemods.html

Re: help with debaffle
 

After drilling some holes in the (VERY HARD) back plate and then plugging them up again, I would encourage you to consider this change VERY carefully.............very carefully.

I have heard a scant few people who have replaced the pipes altogether who seem to be happy with the result.
Those who have tried to modify the stock muffler/pipes seem to end up less than happy.

Any significant change in back pressure may adversely afftect performance......the thing is pretty lean to begin with.
Reducing the intake restriction results is a DRASTIC loss of performance.

Good luck; be careful! :tup:

well the carb is already in need of a good cleaning
so I already bought the new jets
and the stock exhaust is already damaged
it has rattle in it as if someone already tried to punch through the baffle
so before I spend the money on a dunstall which I am already sure I will do I thought I might try to debaffle the stock and rejet and mod airbox all in one week or so.

debaffle
 

Hey rude

I have searched for such a diagram on the web . No luck.

I have drilled 4 evenly spaced 7/32 holes inside the inner ring on the back plate. It gave me the sound I was looking for.

what size main jet are you planning to install ?

I suggest that you mod the air box in stages like maybe drill a 1/2 inch hole in the hood on the filter entrance then progress after testing.

A mechanic suggested using a 122.5 main jet instead of a 125 that I purchased but have not installed yet . I have 4 of those jets.

Re: debaffle
 

Mmmmm.....not sure I follow that. The "hood" attached to the filter is easily removable; it just pops off with a little pry. It has virtually no impact on performance or fuel mixture. It's there just to help keep out water, bugs, etc.

One needs to be careful with actual air box mods. as the air box is BEHIND the filter, not in front of it......air flow wise. A less restrictive filter (don't think there is any such thing available) or complete air box replacement seem to be the only practical choices. I personally don't consider the complete replacement to be practical either.

Anyhow, whatever you end up with air-intake wise, you just need to be sure that there isn't a path for un-filtered air to get to the engine. :tup:

K&N SU-5589 is a direct replacement.

Hope you don't screw something up.

Except more free-flowing, right?
I stand corrected.

Yeah it's less restrictive. It was designed for the GS-500 and a couple of other big Suzuki cruisers but we have the same air filter as they do. The opening inlet which lets in air is a little fatter than the stock filter and the filter element flows more than stock. I mean, it's a K&N. That's what it's supposed to do.

You're going to have to re-jet. If you feel like taking that project on, I'd at least go this route and not waste my time boring holes in the muffler and modding the air box.

Just go ahead a get the replacement muffler and drop in this K&N.

I drilled 4 evenly spaced 1/4" holes on the OUTSIDE of the inner ring and switched the filter from facing backwards to facing forwards. Huge improvement in top speed and no adverse effects on the fuel/air mixture. No rejetting required. On the downside, it does sound a bit different - like it's got a whole in the muffle (which it does).