Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic. I do my own work on just about everything I own. My experience is not vast but does go back some where between 40-50 years on a variety of engines from tractors to lawn mowers. If you do anything I tell you and it breaks your bike its your fault.
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Originally Posted by Bill
1. What kind of oil have folks used with their GZ250 and been pleased with?
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I Castroil GTX 20W50 until the 6,000 miles the switched to Mobil1 15W50 Red Cap. The difference was immediate and dramatic. Most notably in shifting. Do not use the Gold Cap "Extended Service Oil" This will make your clutch slip under certain conditions such as wide open throttle acceleration. I know this from personal experience. A quick google search will find many reference to this but this one is mine. I have it in my bike now.
My reasons for using Mobil1. I use Mobil1 in my truck and I didn't want to keep two different oils and I didn't want to be concerned about changing the oil on time. I had also heard from some one else that it made the bike run better primarily in the area of shifting. My GZ250 had always been hard to shift until I put the Mobil1 in it.
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Originally Posted by Bill
2. What kind of oil filter do you use and what is the cost?
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I have several different filters of various brands. I paid big bucks for the first on and keep them in stock now. I also have filters I got when I bought someones spare parts. after they got rid of their GZ250. The bottom line is that I probably have or had just about every every filter they make for the GZ250. Here ar the differences I have seen.
- The packaging is different. Suzuki filters are in a blister pack. All he rest are in boxes.
- The cost is different. Prices are in the range of $2.50-$10.00. The cheapest one looks just like the most expensive. The most expensive was way outside this range and was purchased from a local dealer. It didn't look any different than the rest.
- One filter was pink the rest are brown.
- Some of them come with new rubber. I'd pay a tiny bit more for this but not much. O rings last a long time. If they look good keep them.
- Price doesn't indicate anything. The lowest cost filter in this group is the same brand as the lowest.
- If you take them out of the package and line them up on you bench and examine them closely you will not be able to tell them apart with the notable exception of the pink filter. As far as I can tell most of them came from the same factory. Possibly all of them did.
I'm currently using the Suzuki filters because I don't like the blister packs and want to get rid of them.
If they sold filters for my bike at WalMart or AutoZone that is the one I would use.
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Originally Posted by Bill
3. Where can I find easy to follow instructions for valve adjustments (pictures would be nice)?
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Short answer is the service manual buy one. I have service manuals for every vehicle I own.
Some suggestions for tools have been posted on this site. If you hands are large and you don't have the right tools the valve clearance adjustment can be very difficult. Get and use the offset feeler gauges like those made for motorcycles. I can't get this right with standard automotive gauges. They break if you bend them to far.
One note of caution. As valves and rocker arms wear the clearance gets tighter. You want to adjust them to where they are near the top of the range. Tighter clearance can give better performance but the risk of burning a valve increases as the clearances get tighter. If the clearance gets to tight the valves will not seat properly. This prevents them from cooling like the should and they leak. This can cause some very bad things to happen to your engine. Be very sure you have the engine at TDC on the compression stroke when you make the adjustment. I do this by plugging the spark plug hole with my finger. When it come up to TDC there will enough compression to blow my finger out. The mark on the flywheel goes around twice and if you the other TDC is on the exhaust stroke.
My take on motorcycle oil.
99% of the postings on this subject are garbage. Weed out the trash.
Inform yourself and and make your decision. Live with it. IMO: Truth is that if the oil meets the makers minimum criteria, your clutch doesn't slip, and you change your oil a prescribed intervals it will be fine. There is lots of good information this subject out there mixed in with cat fights over which oil is best. You just have to filter through it.
90% possibly of what comes from marketing is simply hype. This is one area where some times you get good info from a manufacturer. Mobile1 being one of these. Much of the ads are mostly of the mine is bigger/better than yours type with the occasional "if you use our oil you will have a sexual relationship with a beautiful woman".
To the best of my knowledge Suzuki ins not in the oil business. They sell rebranded oil for high prices. If you into the warranty thing you may want to use this. If you do it yourself you better keep a log and use recommended lubricants or you may void your warranty. I think the best buys on motorcycles are the low millage ones the have expired warranties.
Note that I'm not trying to start a cat fight over who makes the best oil.