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kilo0195 · 01-27-2018, 03:32 AM

I got it all back together today. I couldn't remove my stator cap to access the crank, so I had to turn it by pulling the timing chain to line the cam and gear up. I must say that this part alone took me about an hour all because I couldn't get a wrench on the crank to keep it from moving. I stripped the slotted part of the cap in my attempt to free it so I'm not sure how I'm getting it out in the future. Anyways other than that it was smooth sailing. My starter got a work out as it took a little effort to get it to turn over. I might increase the size of the wire to see if easier juice flow helps. Filled the tank with 93 to start, but will try 89 octane down the road to see if it still can run without detonation. My jets still haven't came in so the carb is still the same. Like I said before it was way rich low and was ideal high rpm and full throttle. Now it feels right down low and up until about half throttle. Full throttle and it feels lean with it barely dropping out of power occasionally. It was passable to get the cam broke in though. First impressions? Keep in mind the carb jetting is off... There's torque a plenty down low. A good bit of this will probably be from the 1.4 point CR increase. Up until about 4500-5000 rpm the torque difference feels kind of like when I changed to the 300cc from the 250. Up top she struggles a bit, but that would be from fuel delivery I'm almost positive. The cam grind should increase power throughout the rpm range with a focus on the mid to top end, so it should be night and day difference when it's jetted properly. I'm hoping when all is tuned properly that I can run the dyno close to the 30whp mark.

Side note I shielded my plug wire and coil and still have tons of interference in the tach signal. I have just no clue at this point other than maybe the generator causing a large magnetic field.

01-27-2018, 03:32 AM	#30
kilo0195 Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Illinois Posts: 52	I got it all back together today. I couldn't remove my stator cap to access the crank, so I had to turn it by pulling the timing chain to line the cam and gear up. I must say that this part alone took me about an hour all because I couldn't get a wrench on the crank to keep it from moving. I stripped the slotted part of the cap in my attempt to free it so I'm not sure how I'm getting it out in the future. Anyways other than that it was smooth sailing. My starter got a work out as it took a little effort to get it to turn over. I might increase the size of the wire to see if easier juice flow helps. Filled the tank with 93 to start, but will try 89 octane down the road to see if it still can run without detonation. My jets still haven't came in so the carb is still the same. Like I said before it was way rich low and was ideal high rpm and full throttle. Now it feels right down low and up until about half throttle. Full throttle and it feels lean with it barely dropping out of power occasionally. It was passable to get the cam broke in though. First impressions? Keep in mind the carb jetting is off... There's torque a plenty down low. A good bit of this will probably be from the 1.4 point CR increase. Up until about 4500-5000 rpm the torque difference feels kind of like when I changed to the 300cc from the 250. Up top she struggles a bit, but that would be from fuel delivery I'm almost positive. The cam grind should increase power throughout the rpm range with a focus on the mid to top end, so it should be night and day difference when it's jetted properly. I'm hoping when all is tuned properly that I can run the dyno close to the 30whp mark. Side note I shielded my plug wire and coil and still have tons of interference in the tach signal. I have just no clue at this point other than maybe the generator causing a large magnetic field.
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