Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas Street Rider
Got to thinking that if the kill switch was not making contact, it wouldn't even turn over and I don't think that is the case. I would focus on the ignition switch at this point.
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Don't imagine it as an open switch. Imagine it as corroded contacts and it's only able to pass 5 to 7 volts turned on and under load.
That might be enough to engage the starter selenoid but not enough to get the igniter goin.
I have learned that on my bike.. If it fails to start but cranks.. A simple off and on of the kill
switch does the job.
Yes. The ignition switch can also be the problem. Your right there and I've seen it on other
bikes.
But after seeing the problem numerous times. I know, on my bike, it's the kill switch.
One of these days I'll rebuild it but I've had to many other bads land on my plate lately :-/
I guess my advice is get a DMM and verify voltages or use deductive reason.
Each time the problem happens try one idea 3 times. Eventually you'll prolly find it maybe.
XD