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Old 09-08-2016, 06:36 AM   #7
b1pig
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: ray city, ga
Posts: 121
Howdy.

My wife's GZ has a VERY finicky carb. If it has ANY fuel left in the bowl after being parked up for more than a few days, the bike does not want to run properly the next time its ridden.

Every spring, I have to pull her carb, disassemble it, and soak it in cleaner. Once its broken down, I brush all parts clean and I use carb cleaner to blow thru the orifices. I usually start her pilot screw around 2.5 turns and adjust to suit.

Something comes to mind. The GZ has a "on-prime-res" selector. There is no "off". There should also be a small vacuum hose running from the top front of carb to the back of the fuel selector. its not a "pump" per se... but the intake pulses allow fuel to flow when in on or reserve. in "prime", this bypasses the "pump" and allows direct flow to the bowl.

If the float is misadjusted or the float valve sticks open, it can allow fuel to overflow the bowl. Higher bowl levels can also enrichen the fuel mixture.... if the overflow is bad enough, yes it can also flood the engine. Forgetting and leavind the fuel selector in "prime" is also a good way to wind up with fuel in your oil. another bad experience.

Remember, that if the engine is flooding, there will be a VERY strong odor of raw gas from the engine when trying to start, or a very strong exhaust odor (maybe with black smoke) when running. A lean condition can sometimes seem like a rich condition, but absent the fuel odor.


all bikes are different to one degree or another, but going out on a limb here, it would seem to me that your bike is suffering from not ENOUGH fuel at the right "circuit". Meaning passages are either blocked or restricted by crud. The absolute BEST way to combat that is remove, disassemble, soak, scrub, spray and maybe add some compressed air to blow it out. obviously reassemble and run it. I'd definitely be starting with 2.5-2.75 turns out on the screw.
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