New spanish guy

[Badbob]

For the LED version you just need a resistance to match the original wattage and avoid a too fast blink.

All of the solutions I have seen do one of two things. They either shunt the LED so the draw the same current as a bulb so the existing flasher will work correctly. This an easy cheap fix but it completely negates one of the primary reasons I want to use an LED. Low power consumption. The second fix replaces the old style flasher with a flasher that works off a timer instead of current. These usually plug in directly or use some sort of adapter. This is ideal you get low power consumption and the durability of the LED plus you get possibly a better more durable flasher. The problem with the GZ250 and LED lighting in tha the flasher is combined with other circuitry in a module. There is no flasher replacement that doesn't require rewiring, I have been hoping someone would spring for some LEDs replacements and find out if the GZ250 flasher works with them. Looks like that might have to be me.

[Water Warrior 2]

Welcome Jaime. Looking forward to ride reports and pics of far off places. Also like your crash bars, they look far more durable and job specific than the factory effort.

As for Led's in the signals, a person would need to find the ones that illuminate all the way around because the bulbs in the 250 do not point straight out to direct the light. Hope you catch my meaning. Did try Led's in the 650 and was not too impressed with them. Back to regular bulbs and then went to 50 watt halogens for better visibility. The flasher will handle the load but will not function with the 4-ways on. Just too much power draw. Regular Led bulbs tend to produce more of a pin point of light through a lense rather than illuminating the entire lense like a regular bulb. There are some out there that will fill the bill but are larger( may not fit ) and costlier.