Oil Change and Shifting Gears Issue for GZ250

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by CANDY

i get 93 at the entek stations in this area. my husband suggested the 20-50, that's what he puts in our drag car. he said it would work better in this heat, but we are going to try the synthetic on my next oil change.

Sound reasoning; good for you (and him).

Except, of course, for the total waste on the Premium gas. :roll:

[Stretch]

I had noticed that my shifting was louder and rougher than normal and, upon inspection, I found that the oil was low. I did add a touch of 10W40 and some Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase. When you folks said not to use ANY additives to avoid clutch destruction, please tell me you didn't include venerable MMO in that warning? Since I normally buy old iron to drive around in, I am addicted to that additive.

I am paranoid, but I wanted to at least get 3000 miles on the oil before changing it. So, am I killing my clutch? It is much quieter and smoother (of course being topped off with oil helps) now than it was when I first got the bike 1000 miles ago and it had been serviced and refilled with fresh (non-synthetic) oil just before I bought it.

Fingers are crossed.
-Bob

[caroledee1]

I searched the Amsoil website for Marvel Mystery Oil. Detergents and solvents: Many of the older, better-known oil treatments on the market do not make

claims nearly so lavish as the new upstarts. Old standbys like Bardahl, Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil instead offer things like "quiet lifters", "reduced oil

burning" and a "cleaner engine". Most of these products are made up of solvents and detergents designed to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits inside

your engine so they can be flushed out. The problem is, unless you have some way of determining just how much is needed to remove your deposits

without going any further, such solvents can also strip away the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. Over-use of solvents is an easy trap to fall

into, and one which can promote harmful metal to metal contact within your engine. As a general rule of thumb these products had their place and were at

least moderately useful on older auto and motorcycle engines of the 50's and 60's but are basically unneeded on the more efficient engine designs of the past

two decades. I would not leave the additive in very long and drain the oil if you put a good amount of it in. I have used 10% Lucas Oil Stabilizer in mine.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by caroledee1

such solvents can also strip away the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. I would not leave the additive in very long and drain the oil if you put a good amount of it in.

What she said !!

I live on a farm and have all kinds of old engines around.......including a '76 GMC pickup that still runs like a top. I use MMO on occasion......but never in the crankcase. It does a good job freeing stuck rings and lubing the valves when put in the GAS. (or poured directly down the carb).

In addition to what Carol said, it tends to thin the oil, since it is about 5 weight or less. That is not a good thing to do this time of year! :oops:

Your clutch will be fine. Change it anyway. And don't do it again.

[Stretch]

Well I guess I will learn to change the oil in a motorcycle this weekend! Had to learn it sometime anyway!

Thanks for the advice and research!
-Bob

[jonathan180iq]

would you like a photo guide?

[Stretch]

Any and all help is appreciated.
-Bob

[jonathan180iq]

I'll take care of it once I get home.

[Stretch]

I will keep an eye out for it.
-Bob

[Gadzooks Mike]

Bob, Jonathan makes some terrific step by step instructions. Trust me, if he does it to his normal standards, you'll be able to follow it with both eyes tied behind your back. Or something like that.