Exhaust leak - Page 5

**jonathan180iq** · 01-07-2011, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick

Ok, just did that and I didn't see any difference at idle versus revved. I guess I'll verify that with a volt meter when I get home.
Question though - if I've been making 50+ mile trips after push starts wouldn't the battery just drain down to dead from the headlight and other electrics running for all that time?

No, the battery wouldn't drop down to dead because the whole time you are riding the bike's "alternator" is taking care of the electrics. That's why your bike runs fine once you get it started.

You aren't having problems with the start button are you? I mean, when you mash it, the starter does turn the engine over a little bit, right?

Rick · 01-07-2011, 08:23 AM

No, the battery wouldn't drop down to dead because the whole time you are riding the bike's "alternator" is taking care of the electrics. That's why your bike runs fine once you get it started.

You aren't having problems with the start button are you? I mean, when you mash it, the starter does turn the engine over a little bit, right?[/quote]

Actually when I press the start button there is dead silence. That's why all along I was thinking it was an electrical problem versus battery problem. Maybe it's a little of both.

**jonathan180iq** · 01-07-2011, 08:32 AM

Ok, another quick and free test:

Push start the bike and get it running. While idling in neutral, just quick bump the starter button.
You should get some noise from the starter to at least verify that your starter and starter button are working fine. I doubt these are an issue, but you need to cover all of these bases.

Also, to check if maybe you have a short somewhere, disconnect the positive lead from the battery and then reattach it. (bike off and key out) If the lead sparks when you reattach it, then you have a short somewhere that would be slowly draining the battery each time you stop.

Just two simple things to eliminate variable.

mrlmd1 · 01-07-2011, 09:17 AM

You are measuring a "surface charge" if you measure the voltage immediately after charging the battery. A more accurate measurement is 1/2 hr. later.
If you are getting 13.5 V with the bike running, your charging system is OK and is not the problem. All that voltage and current is trying to go into a discharged battery and may not brighten the headlight when you rev the bike.
Like I said before, put the battery on a charger for a few hours, take it and get it load tested.
You are just measuring voltage, you have no idea of the cold cranking capacity of the battery - it may be shot and a load test is the only way to see that.
You can buy your own load tester for about $15 in Harbor Freight - it's basically like a stovetop or oven coil which is connected across the battery terminals and heats up for 10 sec. then you measure the voltage and battery charge. Any garage or battery store will test your battery for free (because they would like to sell you another one).
Also check your ground connection and connection at the starter for corrosion - you may be losing a lot of current through there.
And don't forget what I said - if you do get a new AGM battery, you better fully charge it for 6 hrs or so before you use it for the first time or the battery will be screwed forever.

Rick · 01-07-2011, 09:34 AM

The bike started fine this morning after sitting on the trickle charger all night. But as I'm holding the meter leads on the battery terminals I can see it ticking down slowly. So I'll let it sit for a couple hours then try it again.

@jonathan - I did that test for a short and there was no spark

I guess if it won't start after sitting for awhile, I'll try to jump it off of a non-running car battery to verify that the starter button and starter are ok.

Then I'll fully charge the battery again and head to Autozone

Thanks

**jonathan180iq** · 01-07-2011, 09:41 AM

After sitting all night, did you start it with the starter?
If so, then scratch the starter tests, you're done with them.

At idle, it's normal for your battery to lose a little bit. It's not charging unless you are actually riding.

alantf · 01-07-2011, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathan180iq

While idling in neutral, just quick bump the starter button.
You should get some noise from the starter to at least verify that your starter and starter button are working fine.

But, make sure you're holding the clutch lever in when you do this. The starter won't do anything with the cluth lever out, due to an interlock.

BTW, my headlight dims slightly while starting, but I've never seen it come brighter when revving. The voltage regulator takes care of that.

**jonathan180iq** · 01-07-2011, 09:56 AM

Mine always got brighter.

blaine · 01-07-2011, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathan180iq

Mine always got brighter.

:plus1: :rawk:

mrlmd1 · 01-07-2011, 06:37 PM

The bike should be running 2500 rpm or more to have any positive effect on battery voltage. If you are measuring the voltage at idle, the battery may be slowly discharging just to keep the bike running and lights on. You are making yourself nuts by testing things that are erroneous and giving you bad information.
You already measured 13,5-13.7V with the bike at fast idle, slow idle will deplete the battery. Stop already, reread the previous advice and charge up the battery and get it load tested. Your starter and switches are fine - why is that so hard to understand that your battery is probably the problem and that has to be resolved?
Nothing else you are doing will help you in any way until you determine the health of your battery.

01-07-2011, 08:23 AM	#42
Rick Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Driftwood, Tx Posts: 64	Re: Exhaust leak No, the battery wouldn't drop down to dead because the whole time you are riding the bike's "alternator" is taking care of the electrics. That's why your bike runs fine once you get it started. You aren't having problems with the start button are you? I mean, when you mash it, the starter does turn the engine over a little bit, right?[/quote] Actually when I press the start button there is dead silence. That's why all along I was thinking it was an electrical problem versus battery problem. Maybe it's a little of both. __________________ If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space!
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01-07-2011, 08:32 AM	#43
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	Re: Exhaust leak Ok, another quick and free test: Push start the bike and get it running. While idling in neutral, just quick bump the starter button. You should get some noise from the starter to at least verify that your starter and starter button are working fine. I doubt these are an issue, but you need to cover all of these bases. Also, to check if maybe you have a short somewhere, disconnect the positive lead from the battery and then reattach it. (bike off and key out) If the lead sparks when you reattach it, then you have a short somewhere that would be slowly draining the battery each time you stop. Just two simple things to eliminate variable. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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01-07-2011, 09:17 AM	#44
mrlmd1 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Crawfordville, Florida Posts: 2,853	Re: Exhaust leak You are measuring a "surface charge" if you measure the voltage immediately after charging the battery. A more accurate measurement is 1/2 hr. later. If you are getting 13.5 V with the bike running, your charging system is OK and is not the problem. All that voltage and current is trying to go into a discharged battery and may not brighten the headlight when you rev the bike. Like I said before, put the battery on a charger for a few hours, take it and get it load tested. You are just measuring voltage, you have no idea of the cold cranking capacity of the battery - it may be shot and a load test is the only way to see that. You can buy your own load tester for about $15 in Harbor Freight - it's basically like a stovetop or oven coil which is connected across the battery terminals and heats up for 10 sec. then you measure the voltage and battery charge. Any garage or battery store will test your battery for free (because they would like to sell you another one). Also check your ground connection and connection at the starter for corrosion - you may be losing a lot of current through there. And don't forget what I said - if you do get a new AGM battery, you better fully charge it for 6 hrs or so before you use it for the first time or the battery will be screwed forever.
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01-07-2011, 09:34 AM	#45
Rick Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Driftwood, Tx Posts: 64	Re: Exhaust leak The bike started fine this morning after sitting on the trickle charger all night. But as I'm holding the meter leads on the battery terminals I can see it ticking down slowly. So I'll let it sit for a couple hours then try it again. @jonathan - I did that test for a short and there was no spark I guess if it won't start after sitting for awhile, I'll try to jump it off of a non-running car battery to verify that the starter button and starter are ok. Then I'll fully charge the battery again and head to Autozone Thanks __________________ If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space! Login or Register to Remove Ads
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01-07-2011, 09:41 AM	#46
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	Re: Exhaust leak After sitting all night, did you start it with the starter? If so, then scratch the starter tests, you're done with them. At idle, it's normal for your battery to lose a little bit. It's not charging unless you are actually riding.
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01-07-2011, 09:56 AM	#48
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	Re: Exhaust leak Mine always got brighter.
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01-07-2011, 06:37 PM	#50
mrlmd1 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Crawfordville, Florida Posts: 2,853	Re: Exhaust leak The bike should be running 2500 rpm or more to have any positive effect on battery voltage. If you are measuring the voltage at idle, the battery may be slowly discharging just to keep the bike running and lights on. You are making yourself nuts by testing things that are erroneous and giving you bad information. You already measured 13,5-13.7V with the bike at fast idle, slow idle will deplete the battery. Stop already, reread the previous advice and charge up the battery and get it load tested. Your starter and switches are fine - why is that so hard to understand that your battery is probably the problem and that has to be resolved? Nothing else you are doing will help you in any way until you determine the health of your battery.
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