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Old 04-02-2010, 04:37 AM   #21
alanmcorcoran
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

You can clean or replace it. I believe many folks on here clean them in a bucket of kerosene (do a search.) If it's just got surface rust on it it should be okay. I think the mileage is probably a better indicator of wear.

As I said before, I think you'll be fine if you ride it prior to the MSF, but to each his own. (You can often download the MSF instructions. Typically they have you in first gear after about an hour or so on the course.) I'd wait until you ride it. I'd say based on my expereince and what I've observed on this board, you are far likelier to trade the GZ for a bigger bike than to find that the 16T makes it all worth while. The boost of the 16T is in the low end (from what I hear) and it will (allegedly) reduce your top end. I think you should ride the bike regularly for three months so you have something to compare it too.

You really should replace the tires first anyway. Getting a blowout, even at 50 mph, on two wheels is probably going to hurt. Much more important than the 16T.
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:43 AM   #22
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvis
Chain is quite rusty. Do you clean or replace these?

Think I should swap in a 16-tooth sprocket while I have time to kill? Or should I wait to try riding stock first?
If you are in the "target audience" for the 16T, I'd be tempted to do that, chain and rear sprocket all at the same time as the tires......if you can afford it all. You will save a little on labor by not having to take the rear wheel off twice.
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:21 AM   #23
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Easy Rider
If you are in the "target audience" for the 16T, I'd be tempted to do that, chain and rear sprocket all at the same time as the tires......if you can afford it all. You will save a little on labor by not having to take the rear wheel off twice.

You would think so, but at a lot of shops that is not true, most of them nowadays go "by the book" on whatever you want done. So in other words if you want to get back brake pads put on at the same time as a new back tire, they charge you for whatever labor time they have set for a back tire and then charge you whatever labor time JUST doing the back brake pads would take.


Shitty as it is, that is what i have experienced in more than one shop. Its because long gone are the days of a mechanic actually deciding how much he will charge you to do something, he looks at a book and IT TELLS HIM how long it should take him for each separate task, and he adds them together. I have even worked at a small engine shop that did that, I hated it so bad I quit.
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:31 AM   #24
Easy Rider
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

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Originally Posted by music man
You would think so, but at a lot of shops that is not true, most of them nowadays go "by the book" on whatever you want done. .
I don't think my bike shop does that......but my car dealer certainly does........or tries to anyway. I always question it and often get an adjustment.

Tire rotation and off-the-car balancing is an excellent example, along with brake inspection.
IIRC, they once tried to charge me for removing and replacing the tires THREE times. What a crock.

At any rate, it is always good to ask if they use the flat rate manual.......and if they DO, then ask if they make adjustments for work that "overlaps". If not, I'd argue the point......or go elsewhere.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:01 PM   #25
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

I don't have any go elsewheres left, if the bike shop I use now pisses me off, I will have to turn my garage into a full service motorcycle shop. I already can't go to the Suzuki shop anymore (you don't want to know), the Honda and Kawasaki shop won't touch my Suzuki, the Yamaha shop went under (and unfortunately got took over by the Suzuki shop) so now I am down to the Hyosung Dealer, they will work on anything.

Sorry about Hijacking your thread Alvis.
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Old 04-03-2010, 01:14 AM   #26
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

No worries, music man!

I'm going to try the kerosene on the chain. The rust is all over, but doesn't look deep and pitting. Also have some steel wool I can use. About 5K miles on the bike.

I want to see what the local Suzuki dealership can do for me on the tires, though I'm likely going to end up buying them myself and having to find a third party to put them on the wheels.

And I'm hoping I don't outgrow the GZ250 too soon. I got by on 50cc mopeds for the past four years, riding about 1500mi/year. This upgrade to 250cc could quite well blow my mind on its own.
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Old 04-03-2010, 02:47 AM   #27
alanmcorcoran
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

If you don't got hills or highways the thrill will last longer.

A steel wire brush might be easier on your hands and more effective on the chain. wear some gloves and don't poke a hole in them.

There's lots of posts on here re tires. It seems to take a little looking around to locate the equivalent size - it seems many people have had trouble finding the ones that come on the bike.
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Old 04-03-2010, 08:32 AM   #28
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

A 100-90-16 will work if you can't find the proper size.I have run this tire for 3 years.
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Old 04-03-2010, 11:29 AM   #29
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by alanmcorcoran
If you don't got hills or highways the thrill will last longer.

A steel wire brush might be easier on your hands and more effective on the chain. wear some gloves and don't poke a hole in them.

There's lots of posts on here re tires. It seems to take a little looking around to locate the equivalent size - it seems many people have had trouble finding the ones that come on the bike.
The wire brush will clean off the chain side plates but do not do the rollers. With some bad luck you will damage the O rings and shorten the chain life considerably. You might want to just try kerosene and a rag initially. Rubber gloves and elbow grease may be all you need.
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Old 04-03-2010, 11:49 AM   #30
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Re: Ahoy hoy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvis
I'm going to try the kerosene on the chain. The rust is all over, but doesn't look deep and pitting. Also have some steel wool I can use. About 5K miles on the bike.
Surface rust really does not harm a chain. If there is no rust on the rollers or the teeth of the sprockets, a light rinse with kero, mineral spirits (kero without the smell), diesel fuel or even WD 40 is all you need. Anything else (brush, steel wool, etc.) is likely to accomplish nothing really useful and probably will create a REAL mess on adjacent parts......and YOU.

Wipe it, oil it and ride !!
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