Trouble Finding Neutral

[mrlmd1]

Anything's possible, but it's more likely a human than a mechanical problem. Neutral is sometimes hard to find, in many bikes. I have the same problem with my Yamaha TW200, it's tricky to find, just a real light touch on the shift lever, and the GZ's no different, just takes some getting used to and knowing your bike. You can try and adjust the clutch cable, but if that doesn't seem to solve or improve the problem, I would work on the footwork before taking the clutch apart looking for something.

[Skunkhome]

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

If the clutch didn't fully disengage with the clutch handle pulled all the way in, you wouldn't be able to sit still in 1st gear stopped, so I doubt that's the issue. The bike would be trying to move forward or stall.

When I got the bike I could feel it creeping in 1st with the clutch lever fully depressed. With the engine off I could feel it dragging when I tried to push it. There was about one inch of free play at the lever end which I adjusted out.

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

Anything's possible, but it's more likely a human than a mechanical problem. Neutral is sometimes hard to find, in many bikes. I have the same problem with my Yamaha TW200, it's tricky to find, just a real light touch on the shift lever, and the GZ's no different, just takes some getting used to and knowing your bike. You can try and adjust the clutch cable, but if that doesn't seem to solve or improve the problem, I would work on the footwork before taking the clutch apart looking for something.

I adjusted the clutch cable shortly after taking possession of the bike eliminating the creep and improving the shifting. Now it shifts fine as frogs hair when the engine is "cool" but the symptoms start appearing as the bike heats up and gets progressively worse as the bike gets hotter.,

[mrlmd1]

Some bikes. like the Kawasaki Ninja 250 I had, develop "sticky" clutch plates, especially with long periods of non use. When you hit the starter button, even with the clutch pulled all the way in, and/or, the bike in neutral, the bike would lurch forward as if started in gear.The clutch plates are "stuck" together from the thin film of oil between them, and it has to be broken loose by rolling the bike back and forth a few times. Then it works perfectly fine and shifts like butter.
I know, that's a different problem, just thought I'd mention it.
As WW asked, when was the last time the oil was changed and do you know what's in there? How many miles are on your bike?
What symptoms get progressively worse as the bike heats up - shifting between gears, clutch dragging in neutral?

[Skunkhome]

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

Some bikes. like the Kawasaki Ninja 250 I had, develop "sticky" clutch plates, especially with long periods of non use. When you hit the starter button, even with the clutch pulled all the way in, and/or, the bike in neutral, the bike would lurch forward as if started in gear.The clutch plates are "stuck" together from the thin film of oil between them, and it has to be broken loose by rolling the bike back and forth a few times. Then it works perfectly fine and shifts like butter.
I know, that's a different problem, just thought I'd mention it.
As WW asked, when was the last time the oil was changed and do you know what's in there? How many miles are on your bike?
What symptoms get progressively worse as the bike heats up - shifting between gears, clutch dragging in neutral?

Oh I have experienced that as well but have not give it much notice. Some how I missed ww's question . Have 4900 miles on bike, changed oil about 500 miles ago. Used 10w40 Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil (Dino) API SF/SG/SJ.
I am toying with the idea of changing again soon and putting in synthetic as I have read here somewhere that it improves the shifting and improvement remains even after returning to Dino oil.
The symptoms are that the bike is increasingly more difficult to shift into 1st with the engine running after the bike is fully warmed up. I downshift as much as I can using engine braking when I anticipate stops but often there is so much going on that I mis-count the down shifts or don't get the chance to down shift while the bike is moving. I always try to check to see if I am in 1st by attempting to down shift sitting still or if i have room by letting out on the clutch to see if it wants to stall. At any rate if I determine that I an not in first I find it virtually impossible to down shift unless I I slip the clutch a bit while trying or shut off the engine and recranking after shifting. More than once I have had to roll the bike over onto neutral ground to allow traffic to move past me as I sort it out. The extreme has been that at times I have found my self in third unable to downshift into 2nd or first. Not being able to get her into neutral is a minor inconvenience.

[Water Warrior 2]

If you do go with a synthetic oil you might want to try Rotella synthetic. It is reasonably cheap and works quite well. Both of our bike have Rotella dino and the shifting is spot on with no hang ups. Rotella will resist breaking down in a Kenworth engine so a GZ will likely like it. Rotella is motorcycle certified in case you are wondering.

[Skunkhome]

Rotella is 15w40?

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by Skunkhome

Rotella is 15w40?

Yup, good old Rotella 15W40 dino. I actually had Amsoil in the Vstrom synthetic for half it's life but switched over to Rotella. It is far cheaper and the bike seems to thrive on it. The bike has never exhibited any symptoms of oil break down either. Rotella in the Ranger V-6 as well although the rest of the running gear has Amsoil. I do believe Amsoil is the best product on the market but Rotella just works too well in a bike not to use it.

[GZ250]

simply put: GZ is a jerk in case of going to neutral

[Rookie Rider]

And popping out of neutral.

[Skunkhome]

Never had her pop out of neutral but enters easiest by toeing up from 1st.