GZ 125 no spark - Page 2

robg123 · 08-15-2016, 05:57 PM

It had a smashed ignition lock which i replaced - the replacement kept blowing fuses when ignition was on so was wired wrong for the bike - i have cut the wires and have hard wired the 3 sets of 2 wires as per the manual for the on position.everything lights up now.i just unplugg for ignition off until i get this spark problem sorted.

wacio · 08-15-2016, 09:07 PM

I have 400 ohm minimum in my GZ250 manual. I'm not sure if this applies to yours. After disconnecting check resistance coil connections to ground (engine or frame) to see if not leaking (should be infinity). Might be worth to check voltage on this coil while cranking. If you are getting close to 5V -I'd say part is OK. But if substantially lower or 0V - NFG.

Check and double check your connections - from what you're describing above you did major surgery to your electrics. It is easy to disconnect, short or cut something by mistake. Your ignitor should be getting 12V on orange/yellow from ignition switch - check that to eliminate messed up ignition switch possibility.

Check if its getting good ground on black/white going to ignitor.

Check all the other connections from ignitor by measuring cable resistance from ignitor harness plug to wherever they go on schematic. They should be all max couple ohm. For example meter stick probe into igniter connector to black yellow wire and check if there is continuity at the ignition coil (same color wire).

robg123 · 08-16-2016, 05:03 AM

just checked for voltage and got zip..0.. can this be down to a broken wireor something?, or is seeing that the resistance is within range (apparently 150-300ohm) the pickup is bust

robg123 · 08-16-2016, 05:38 AM

could be my cheap digital multimeter? orange yellow is wired to ground (on temporary plug) and there is power at the module on orange/yellow and black/yellow.

robg123 · 08-16-2016, 06:22 AM

continuity between pulse coil plug/ignitor module, module to coils

robg123 · 08-16-2016, 07:00 AM

also just started looking at my next problem with the ignition switch..so from the bike i have 6 wires ,on position i want R & O ,O/Y & B/W, Gr & Br. trouble is after testing the key ,i only have 2 sets of wires with continuity when key is 'on' .with the other two having continuity in the 'off' position.
Could i keep BW/OY seperate on one set and join the rest?or maybe crossing those two circuits might not be wise..

robg123 · 08-16-2016, 11:16 AM

ignition sorted.red orange to key, the other is hard wired and only gets current when red/orange are switched on.

wacio · 08-16-2016, 09:00 PM

Great to hear that. Did you get the bike started OK?

robg123 · 08-17-2016, 03:56 AM

no.haha.still no spark ..took stator off last night and had a look.seems to be some scuffing on the pickup,i dissasembled and cleaned it up then refitted,still nothing.
I think i may just bite the bullet and find another stator/pickup coil and ignitor box.i have a new coil on the way too.surely if they are all good it can only be a wire problem.

robg123 · 08-22-2016, 05:03 PM

after further thought i think the problem is the anti theft resistor apparently fitted to some suzukis. Some have a 100 ohm .5w resistor in the ignition which give ground or power signal to the ecu, this stops people hot wiring the ignition as it misses out the resistor and the ecu will not trigger thecoil...well...i hope this is the case as i am out of ideas, tried another stator/pulse coil and also another ecu box and had no luck

08-15-2016, 05:57 PM	#11
robg123 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 16	It had a smashed ignition lock which i replaced - the replacement kept blowing fuses when ignition was on so was wired wrong for the bike - i have cut the wires and have hard wired the 3 sets of 2 wires as per the manual for the on position.everything lights up now.i just unplugg for ignition off until i get this spark problem sorted. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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08-15-2016, 09:07 PM	#12
wacio Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Illinois Posts: 174	I have 400 ohm minimum in my GZ250 manual. I'm not sure if this applies to yours. After disconnecting check resistance coil connections to ground (engine or frame) to see if not leaking (should be infinity). Might be worth to check voltage on this coil while cranking. If you are getting close to 5V -I'd say part is OK. But if substantially lower or 0V - NFG. Check and double check your connections - from what you're describing above you did major surgery to your electrics. It is easy to disconnect, short or cut something by mistake. Your ignitor should be getting 12V on orange/yellow from ignition switch - check that to eliminate messed up ignition switch possibility. Check if its getting good ground on black/white going to ignitor. Check all the other connections from ignitor by measuring cable resistance from ignitor harness plug to wherever they go on schematic. They should be all max couple ohm. For example meter stick probe into igniter connector to black yellow wire and check if there is continuity at the ignition coil (same color wire). Last edited by wacio; 08-15-2016 at 09:30 PM.
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08-16-2016, 05:03 AM	#13
robg123 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 16	just checked for voltage and got zip..0.. can this be down to a broken wireor something?, or is seeing that the resistance is within range (apparently 150-300ohm) the pickup is bust Login or Register to Remove Ads
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08-16-2016, 06:22 AM	#15
robg123 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 16	continuity between pulse coil plug/ignitor module, module to coils Login or Register to Remove Ads
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08-16-2016, 05:38 AM	#14
robg123 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 16	could be my cheap digital multimeter? orange yellow is wired to ground (on temporary plug) and there is power at the module on orange/yellow and black/yellow.
	0

08-16-2016, 07:00 AM	#16
robg123 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 16	also just started looking at my next problem with the ignition switch..so from the bike i have 6 wires ,on position i want R & O ,O/Y & B/W, Gr & Br. trouble is after testing the key ,i only have 2 sets of wires with continuity when key is 'on' .with the other two having continuity in the 'off' position. Could i keep BW/OY seperate on one set and join the rest?or maybe crossing those two circuits might not be wise..
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08-16-2016, 11:16 AM	#17
robg123 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 16	ignition sorted.red orange to key, the other is hard wired and only gets current when red/orange are switched on.
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08-16-2016, 09:00 PM	#18
wacio Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Illinois Posts: 174	Great to hear that. Did you get the bike started OK?
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08-17-2016, 03:56 AM	#19
robg123 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 16	no.haha.still no spark ..took stator off last night and had a look.seems to be some scuffing on the pickup,i dissasembled and cleaned it up then refitted,still nothing. I think i may just bite the bullet and find another stator/pickup coil and ignitor box.i have a new coil on the way too.surely if they are all good it can only be a wire problem.
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08-22-2016, 05:03 PM	#20
robg123 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 16	after further thought i think the problem is the anti theft resistor apparently fitted to some suzukis. Some have a 100 ohm .5w resistor in the ignition which give ground or power signal to the ecu, this stops people hot wiring the ignition as it misses out the resistor and the ecu will not trigger thecoil...well...i hope this is the case as i am out of ideas, tried another stator/pulse coil and also another ecu box and had no luck
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