Rode fine all day, then it died completely no power anywhere

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by ajmiller

Ok. So no meter. No test light.

So......what are you trying to tell us ??

Next, you need to let the battery charge overnight and see what happens.

Then you need to check the cable connections............

THEN you are going to HAVE to get a meter or a mechanic because you can't find electrical faults by LOOKING at them or "feeling" the fuses.......no matter how good your eyes and fingers are.

[ajmiller]

And what would I do once I get a meter?

[JWR]

Google voltage meter...

Call a friend that knows what a voltage meter is...

Take it to a shop???

[Water Warrior 2]

Your local auto parts store will have a test light and probably a multimeter with instructions. Experiment with the cage battery and fuse panel to learn how the T.L. and meter should work. It is really quite simple and straight forward. Soon you will be checking your flashlights and other doo dads for power levels.

[ajmiller]

Thanks for some direction in what to do. It does not sound hard I was just trying to see if any of you had any ideas on what to check first. - will not pay a shop to fix anything that I am able to figure out since the only place around me is crazy to think that anyone would pay their prices.

[bonehead]

Just some first hand experience with fuses. You can look at a fuse and see it thru the flat viewing area and it can look good(not blown/separated). Also look at the top where the two little pieces come out of the plastic housing. Now look at the flat surface where they begin to protrude into the top-if that area is black the fuse is blown.
That little bit of knowledge cost us a wrecker fee for one of our school buses to the local International dealer.
And yes, I really felt stupid!

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by ajmiller

I was just trying to see if any of you had any ideas on what to check first. -

will not pay a shop to fix anything that I am able to figure out since the only place around me is crazy to think that anyone would pay their prices.

You got about the only answers possible under the circumstances. Have you checked those cable connections yet? That part you should be able to do just with eye and feel......and you can just replace the main fuse for about a buck to be sure it doesn't have a hidden fault.

As for shop labor prices, what line of work are YOU in ?? Would you continue to do that kind of work if you couldn't cover all your expenses and make a small profit ??

I don't believe in throwing your money away but I DO believe in being practical about what you can and can't (or shouldn't) handle on your own. Sometimes it is cheaper to just pay to get it fixed up front.......before you mess it up worse and it ends up costing MORE.

This will be a good learning experience **IF** you have the time and the patience to see it through. I kind of get the impression that you might be a little short on the patience side.

[ajmiller]

I am very patient actually I just don't like not knowing what's wrong with my vehicles and not know how to fix it. My buddy works on harleys and know his way around bikes so he helps out when he can and beer is a lot cheaper than labor prices and I benefit more. It charged all night and showed to be ready to go on the charger this morning so I tried her out and I got another pop sound and lights went out again. Swapped spare main fuse for used one before I did anything this morning. Another day of sitting around waiting on the rain so am going to go get a volt meter and if I can't find my test will pick one of those up as well. And I disagree with the suzuki shop near me cause their priced outrageous and I get treated like shit every time I go in there. My suzuki friends also get the same treatment so they are well on their way to running their business to the ground. Sorry for language but had to be done in regards to this place. Would their be a reason why the (pop) noise would come from in the storage area? Storage container is out of course and all open to view.

[Sarris]

A few simple suggestions. Check for a shorted or loose battery cable. That can cause a pop when it arcs.

Check the starter leads. Check the starter motor relay. Check the regulator/rectifier. Possibly a bad starter.

My first inclination is that the starter motor relay is bad if it pops under the seat when you hit the starter button. It has it's own 20a fuse. You should be able to get it tested at a parts store or at the dealer.

Here is the electrical stuff at Ron Ayers: Electrical

Good luck!

[blaine]

You have a bad connection close to your battery.Clean and tighten all connections.The popping you hear is a connection trying to make contact.One of the main cables,or fuses.