Ok finally got the pics to upload properly... or links anyways. The first pic is the bike itself. There's a pic of my filter setup that I've talked about elsewhere. Just took my k&n out of the box, tossed the box, and epoxied the rubber tube from the carb to the outside of the filter. The zip ties held it in place to dry and I left them for extra strength. There's also a comparison of the 2 different jugs with the original piston and jug on top. Sorry about the crappy photos of the port jobs. Removed all casting marks originally. I went back today and smoothed the intake tube transitions and flattened the curves. The exhaust I rounded the curves as much as possible and opened the the ends to match the new pipes as the old ones had a sort of ramp inside of them that made the inside pipe diameters as the head about 1/2". Now they're about an 1" inside. The head I touched today as well, I trenched the squish areas (as they're dramatically bigger now with a 6mm larger piston) angling them towards the plug and gradually getting deeper and wider towards the chamber. The head was also domed, meaning that the ridges between the combustion chamber and valves, plug, etc were removed and rounded. The areas were left rough to promote better turbulence on intake and compression. There's a pic also of the piston still in the bottom as well as a pic of the new cam about to go in. The jug will be decked another .045 this week before I start putting it back together. As far as how she's been running since the original work.... rich... which is an understatement. I had a lot of carbon to remove from the Head and piston. The the gasket was in great shape, as well as the cylinder wall, rings, piston, rod, and pin. Nothing out of the ordinary when I inspected everything closely. All in all definitely recommend the 300cc swap from China. For $130 I think it was and about 5 hours of time it's a pretty cheap and easy mod if you're mechanically inclined. The other work isn't necessary but doesn't take long and can be done yourself as well... minus the decking unless you have a mill. The cam is the most expensive part and will run you I think they said about $200. You can get titanium springs and retainers for a 95 dr250 for another $200 online If you're inclined. While not required for the cam profile it's added insurance for me with the way I push it. If you do the exhaust openings it will probably cost you a bit to have new pipes made if you can't make those yourself. All in all I paid more for the used and neglected bike than I did for all of the additions combined.
The new shocks, drag bars, sissy bar and brackets, engine mods, sprockets, chain, paint lights... pretty much everything and the bike itself is in the $2,000 to $2200 area. The rich issue is from the starter jet... It's currently a 60 and reguardless of what one may think it effects fuel delivery throughout the rpm range even without choke... and no I don't have choke issues I checked. I'll be dropping that back to a 52.5, changing the pilot from a 17.5 to 20, and main from 147.5 to 150 while taking a couple shims out of the needle. I know that the stock pilot, starter, and a 147.5 main it will run very very lean. The different jets will hopefully correct everything or at least get me in the ballpark. I'll start there and go where it needs from there. When i can afford it I'll dyno tune and run it to get the final numbers.