Rear Brakes

Sarris · 04-27-2009, 08:29 AM

It seems as though most folks over look their rear brakes. You should remove the rear wheel & hub every 10k to 12k miles. Check the drum inside the hub for excessive wear or grooves, and replace if present. Also, you should wash the hub & shoe assemblies and inside of the drum with Brakekleen or equal. Don't blow it out with compressed air. Brake dust is toxic shit. Next you should lightly grease (white grease) the pad contact points (whether replacing the shoes or not) before re-assembly. Of course you'll have to re-adjust the rear brake. The difference in smoothness and braking power was amazing.

I also replace the rear hub rubber shock absorber while apart. It's $5 to $8 and really smooths out gear engagement and removes all the driveline slop (and noise) that comes on slowly over time from wear. It really made a big dif on mine when I replaced it at 10k miles. I plan to do it every 10k.

I also remove and clean/lube the chain at the same time. I have an o-ring chain, so 5k oiling & 10k service is all it gets.

Easy Rider · 04-27-2009, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sarris

I also remove and clean/lube the chain at the same time. I have an o-ring chain, so 5k oiling & 10k service is all it gets.

Good post!

Are you really saying that you only lube the chain (oil) every 5,000 miles ??
O-ring or not, I'm thinking that's not often enough.
Just a few drops along the bottom will get distributed by the sprockets; not necessary to oil the "whole thing".
I give it a touch every 300-500 miles.

Sarris · 04-27-2009, 09:45 AM

Sorry, I hit it lightly with spray lube every few of rides (200 miles or so) or after a wash w/ major oiling as above.

:whistle:

Water Warrior 2 · 04-28-2009, 12:45 AM

A very light sand blasting will remove glazing and smarm from the brake shoes. They come out working and looking like new.

David Bo · 04-30-2009, 05:08 PM

So does the rear wheel have to be removed in order to get inside that hub?

Water Warrior 2 · 05-01-2009, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Bo

So does the rear wheel have to be removed in order to get inside that hub?

Yup it does.

David Bo · 05-01-2009, 11:38 AM

OK, I just came back from "cleaning" my rear brake shoes. It really was not as hard as I thought it would be. All I did to get to them was roll my back tire onto a couple of boards to raise it off of the ground about 3". Then I took my jacks stands and shimmed them up a 3" by placing additional boards under them. Once I got my bike standing in the stands my rear tire was about 4" off of the ground. I un-did all of the brake bolts and loosened the tire bolt. Next, I pushed the tire all the way up to the front as far as it would go. Then I kind of took the top of the chain and moved it off of a couple of the rear sprockets (on the top portion of the sprocket). With the bike in neutral, I slowly spun the tire backward until the chain fell off of the entire sprocket. Then, I "lifted" the weight of the rear wheel off of the mounting bolt and pulled it out. The rear wheel rested on the floor and I was able to get inside the hub for cleaning. IT WAS FILTHY!!! I sprayed brake cleaner in and around the shoes and inside the wheel where the shoes come in contact with the wheel itself. I sprayed A LITTLE white grease onto the little pinion point inside the hub and re-assembled everything.

Things sound a lot quieter back there now. I used to hear a faint grinding sound in that hub even when the brakes were not applied. Must of been all that dust and crap inside there getting stuck in between the shoes and the hub wall. The shoes themselves still had a lot of meat on them so I probably will not replace them until next year.

This is just another example of how easy it is to work on these little buggers. By the way, if anyone would like to try this out for themselves, make sure you have a couple of spare cotter pins close by. There were two cotter pins that need to be removed during this operation and, if you are like me, by the time you remove them they no longer look like cotter pins

.

dannylightning · 05-01-2009, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Bo

OK, I kind of took the top of the chain and moved it off of a couple of the rear sprockets .

how man rear sprockets do you have?? :lol:

mine are good according to the indicator line. you guys think that thing is accurate on this bike

David Bo · 05-01-2009, 01:41 PM

I guess I should have said TEETH on the rear sprocket.....

dannylightning · 05-01-2009, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Bo

I guess I should have said TEETH on the rear sprocket.....

naw, i think we all know what you meant. i couldn't help when i saw a opportunity to make a funny..

04-27-2009, 08:29 AM	#1
Sarris Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: New Port Richey, Florida USA Posts: 1,348	Rear Brakes It seems as though most folks over look their rear brakes. You should remove the rear wheel & hub every 10k to 12k miles. Check the drum inside the hub for excessive wear or grooves, and replace if present. Also, you should wash the hub & shoe assemblies and inside of the drum with Brakekleen or equal. Don't blow it out with compressed air. Brake dust is toxic shit. Next you should lightly grease (white grease) the pad contact points (whether replacing the shoes or not) before re-assembly. Of course you'll have to re-adjust the rear brake. The difference in smoothness and braking power was amazing. I also replace the rear hub rubber shock absorber while apart. It's $5 to $8 and really smooths out gear engagement and removes all the driveline slop (and noise) that comes on slowly over time from wear. It really made a big dif on mine when I replaced it at 10k miles. I plan to do it every 10k. I also remove and clean/lube the chain at the same time. I have an o-ring chain, so 5k oiling & 10k service is all it gets. __________________ Prudent riders live longer than moron riders. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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04-27-2009, 09:45 AM	#3
Sarris Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: New Port Richey, Florida USA Posts: 1,348	Re: Rear Brakes Sorry, I hit it lightly with spray lube every few of rides (200 miles or so) or after a wash w/ major oiling as above. :whistle: __________________ Prudent riders live longer than moron riders. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

04-28-2009, 12:45 AM	#4
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Re: Rear Brakes A very light sand blasting will remove glazing and smarm from the brake shoes. They come out working and looking like new.
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04-30-2009, 05:08 PM	#5
David Bo Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Northbridge, MA Posts: 96	Re: Rear Brakes So does the rear wheel have to be removed in order to get inside that hub? Login or Register to Remove Ads
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05-01-2009, 11:38 AM	#7
David Bo Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Northbridge, MA Posts: 96	Re: Rear Brakes OK, I just came back from "cleaning" my rear brake shoes. It really was not as hard as I thought it would be. All I did to get to them was roll my back tire onto a couple of boards to raise it off of the ground about 3". Then I took my jacks stands and shimmed them up a 3" by placing additional boards under them. Once I got my bike standing in the stands my rear tire was about 4" off of the ground. I un-did all of the brake bolts and loosened the tire bolt. Next, I pushed the tire all the way up to the front as far as it would go. Then I kind of took the top of the chain and moved it off of a couple of the rear sprockets (on the top portion of the sprocket). With the bike in neutral, I slowly spun the tire backward until the chain fell off of the entire sprocket. Then, I "lifted" the weight of the rear wheel off of the mounting bolt and pulled it out. The rear wheel rested on the floor and I was able to get inside the hub for cleaning. IT WAS FILTHY!!! I sprayed brake cleaner in and around the shoes and inside the wheel where the shoes come in contact with the wheel itself. I sprayed A LITTLE white grease onto the little pinion point inside the hub and re-assembled everything. Things sound a lot quieter back there now. I used to hear a faint grinding sound in that hub even when the brakes were not applied. Must of been all that dust and crap inside there getting stuck in between the shoes and the hub wall. The shoes themselves still had a lot of meat on them so I probably will not replace them until next year. This is just another example of how easy it is to work on these little buggers. By the way, if anyone would like to try this out for themselves, make sure you have a couple of spare cotter pins close by. There were two cotter pins that need to be removed during this operation and, if you are like me, by the time you remove them they no longer look like cotter pins .
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05-01-2009, 01:41 PM	#9
David Bo Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Northbridge, MA Posts: 96	Re: Rear Brakes I guess I should have said TEETH on the rear sprocket.....
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