At the mechanics shop - Page 5

PimpS · 06-30-2012, 04:16 PM

Don't take it so personally, i'm not ignoring you. Load test wasn't made, that's true, but the rectifier (old) was showing some strange readings, it was like he was going on and off, I'm ignorant of electricity knowledge, it was like when getting hot, he turned off. Other collegue told me, that is strange, cause rectifiers are made, don't know how to say, let's say tough and over the usual limits, but it happens that they start to do their job faulty are not at all. He also mentioned me, that with his bike that he had, was also showing similar simptoms like mine, he changed battery, checked for short circuits, but the bike had a rectifier that was going faulty (on and off)... I'll have my battery checked too, not to please you, but me! Like you said it's my money that I'm spending. I'm not ignoring you, i'm thankful for all your input. Also i was warned not to press a lot the horn when not riding, cause usually the rectifier takes too much heat and it can break down (he said that on weddings, many times his friends burn the rectifiers when horning at turned on bike and not moving...

Stay cool and enjoy the ride!

alantf · 07-01-2012, 03:56 AM

Ah.... this points to what I said in one of my first posts - that there's the POSSIBILITY of an intermittent fault. Never known this to happen with a rectifier, before, but stranger things have happened. I'd still get the battery properly tested, just to give you peace of mind that the faulty rectifier hasn't caused any damage. Glad you've got it sorted, but you never told us about the "strange" readings on the rectifier - in fact, it appeared that you hadn't even tested it - so that's why we were so sure that it wasn't that.

PimpS · 07-01-2012, 04:22 AM

Strange readings were made before the instalation of new one. i didn't write it clear in my previous post. I agree with the peace of mind and testing battery, the electrician went for hollidays, i got to go to other, but was full. Week ahead i'll do that and tighten the chain.
It's new to me to run from mechanic to mechanic, ask you guys here, ask all my friends with bikes, get different information, opposite opinions... It's not just the matter of thrust nor competence, it's the wish to ride, bigger than anything else.
All these are new experiences to me, since i never put that much effort in repairing car, instruments that i play...
I'm sure you were all here...

If not, you are lucky!

OldNTired · 07-02-2012, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alantf

[attachment=0:xgix4d2h]img080.jpg[/attachment:xgix4d2h]The only way to test a rectifier is to check the forward resistance of each plate, but I don't know what the resistance should be, and I don't think you're up to it. A rectifier is only (each plate) a gadget for allowing current to flow one way, and not in the reverse direction, so that the forward/reverse flow of alternating current is converted into the forward only flow of direct current.

Here's a simplified drawing of a little bridge rectifier that I made (using blocking diodes) so that I could fit a 12v dc buzzer to our 12v ac door entry system. If you follow the path, each way, from the ac to the dc, you'll see that in each case, current must flow from left to right across the dc terminals in each case. The diodes simply let the current flow in the forward direction, but not the reverse. You can see from this that if any diode went faulty, then we wouldn't get true dc across the dc terminals. That's why I said that your rectifier can't possibly be faulty, or the mechanic wouldn't have got dc at the battery terminals. there's really no need to test - you're either getting dc or not.

By the way........sounds like the mechanic's trying to baffle you with bullshit.

Sorry, but I can not agree. With mine, even though the rectifier was bad, I would get between 5,8VDC and 12.3VDC with the engine running. And I positively remember checking the diodes with a diode tester (had to borrow my neighbors). The procedure is, I think, in the manual.

alantf · 07-02-2012, 04:36 AM

Yes, but he said that the mechanic tested the battery with the engine running, and it was fine. From this, we took it to mean that the mechanic put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and got a consistently high voltage reading. This piece of information was what pointed to a good charging circuit, and the possibility of a battery problem. It was only after he had fitted the new rectifier that he mentioned that they had tested the old one and got weird readings. Seems like we were trying to help with the wrong information. This is the problem, over the internet, when you can't do your own tests.

OldNTired · 07-02-2012, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alantf

Yes, but he said that the mechanic tested the battery with the engine running, and it was fine. From this, we took it to mean that the mechanic put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and got a consistently high voltage reading. This piece of information was what pointed to a good charging circuit, and the possibility of a battery problem. It was only after he had fitted the new rectifier that he mentioned that they had tested the old one and got weird readings. Seems like we were trying to help with the wrong information. This is the problem, over the internet, when you can't do your own tests.

My apologies! I missed the part where the mech tested with bike running with a consistent reading.
I agree with the difficulty of trying to diagnose without being there. And it gets worse when the 'facts' keep changing!

PimpS · 07-05-2012, 05:14 AM

Ok, np! I have another question:
Yesterday i haven't checked, but in the morning i saw that the rear wheel, when it was adjusted chain, i saw difference between the marks for rear wheel, it's not a lot, just a 1 milimeter less on the right side... Should i adjusted alone, or leave it that way? I think i would be able to do it, since i saw it. I think it would be enough just to loosen one screw (right one and do a bit of tightening)... Do I need a torque wrench, or do I just tighten as much as i can, The main scre i mean.
Thanks for replying!

No problems in cornering though...

Water Warrior 2 · 07-05-2012, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PimpS

Ok, np! I have another question:
Yesterday i haven't checked, but in the morning i saw that the rear wheel, when it was adjusted chain, i saw difference between the marks for rear wheel, it's not a lot, just a 1 milimeter less on the right side... Should i adjusted alone, or leave it that way? I think i would be able to do it, since i saw it. I think it would be enough just to loosen one screw (right one and do a bit of tightening)... Do I need a torque wrench, or do I just tighten as much as i can, The main scre i mean.
Thanks for replying!

No problems in cornering though...

1 millimeter isn't a lot but it may affect chain and sprocket wear in time. If you saw it done once you can probably do it yourself now.
You need to start from scratch with the adjustment. Loosen both adjusters a bit. One full turn should be adequate. Loosen the axle. Try to remember the amount of force needed to loosen it and use the same amount to eventually tighten it. You will get the idea with time.
Now that the axle is loose just kick the rear tire forward until the chain is slack or stops at the adjusters. Slowly tighten both adjusters to match the same hash marks on the swing arm. I usually do a 1/6th turn of the adjuster for a simple reason. The adjusters have 6 sides and are easy to see. Do an adjustment, check the chain slack and hash marks. Repeat until you feel the chain is correctly tightened. Snug up the axle a bit. Check hash marks again as I have experienced axle movement when tightening an axle. If it is good with a snug then tighten with some force and call it good.
Others will drop in and add their info and suggestions too. It's all good. What I will miss some one else will clarify and make things right.

06-30-2012, 04:16 PM	#41
PimpS Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Slovenija Posts: 475	Re: At the mechanics shop Don't take it so personally, i'm not ignoring you. Load test wasn't made, that's true, but the rectifier (old) was showing some strange readings, it was like he was going on and off, I'm ignorant of electricity knowledge, it was like when getting hot, he turned off. Other collegue told me, that is strange, cause rectifiers are made, don't know how to say, let's say tough and over the usual limits, but it happens that they start to do their job faulty are not at all. He also mentioned me, that with his bike that he had, was also showing similar simptoms like mine, he changed battery, checked for short circuits, but the bike had a rectifier that was going faulty (on and off)... I'll have my battery checked too, not to please you, but me! Like you said it's my money that I'm spending. I'm not ignoring you, i'm thankful for all your input. Also i was warned not to press a lot the horn when not riding, cause usually the rectifier takes too much heat and it can break down (he said that on weddings, many times his friends burn the rectifiers when horning at turned on bike and not moving... Stay cool and enjoy the ride! Login or Register to Remove Ads
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07-01-2012, 03:56 AM	#42
alantf Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tenerife (Spain) Posts: 3,715	Re: At the mechanics shop Ah.... this points to what I said in one of my first posts - that there's the POSSIBILITY of an intermittent fault. Never known this to happen with a rectifier, before, but stranger things have happened. I'd still get the battery properly tested, just to give you peace of mind that the faulty rectifier hasn't caused any damage. Glad you've got it sorted, but you never told us about the "strange" readings on the rectifier - in fact, it appeared that you hadn't even tested it - so that's why we were so sure that it wasn't that. __________________ By birth an Englishman, by the grace of God a Yorkshireman.
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07-01-2012, 04:22 AM	#43
PimpS Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Slovenija Posts: 475	Re: At the mechanics shop Strange readings were made before the instalation of new one. i didn't write it clear in my previous post. I agree with the peace of mind and testing battery, the electrician went for hollidays, i got to go to other, but was full. Week ahead i'll do that and tighten the chain. It's new to me to run from mechanic to mechanic, ask you guys here, ask all my friends with bikes, get different information, opposite opinions... It's not just the matter of thrust nor competence, it's the wish to ride, bigger than anything else. All these are new experiences to me, since i never put that much effort in repairing car, instruments that i play... I'm sure you were all here... If not, you are lucky! Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

07-02-2012, 04:36 AM	#45
alantf Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tenerife (Spain) Posts: 3,715	Re: At the mechanics shop Yes, but he said that the mechanic tested the battery with the engine running, and it was fine. From this, we took it to mean that the mechanic put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and got a consistently high voltage reading. This piece of information was what pointed to a good charging circuit, and the possibility of a battery problem. It was only after he had fitted the new rectifier that he mentioned that they had tested the old one and got weird readings. Seems like we were trying to help with the wrong information. This is the problem, over the internet, when you can't do your own tests. __________________ By birth an Englishman, by the grace of God a Yorkshireman. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

07-05-2012, 05:14 AM	#47
PimpS Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Slovenija Posts: 475	Re: At the mechanics shop Ok, np! I have another question: Yesterday i haven't checked, but in the morning i saw that the rear wheel, when it was adjusted chain, i saw difference between the marks for rear wheel, it's not a lot, just a 1 milimeter less on the right side... Should i adjusted alone, or leave it that way? I think i would be able to do it, since i saw it. I think it would be enough just to loosen one screw (right one and do a bit of tightening)... Do I need a torque wrench, or do I just tighten as much as i can, The main scre i mean. Thanks for replying! No problems in cornering though...
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