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Old 06-03-2015, 01:33 PM   #11
blaine
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I have always used Rotella in all my bikes & never experienced this???
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:40 PM   #12
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blaine - the only way I can desribe it is like this, imagine going to 4th to 5th but the RPM's are up there some. When I let off the clutch it slips a few seconds before full engagement unless I shift with the throttle closed completely. When the regular M/C oil it doesn't do this, the clutch grabs immediately and the 250's throws me off the seat, well ok maybe that's an exaggeration LOL......
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Old 06-03-2015, 04:45 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by gz250dude View Post
blaine - the only way I can desribe it is like this, imagine going to 4th to 5th but the RPM's are up there some. When I let off the clutch it slips a few seconds before full engagement unless I shift with the throttle closed completely. When the regular M/C oil it doesn't do this, the clutch grabs immediately and the 250's throws me off the seat, well ok maybe that's an exaggeration LOL......
Strange........A lot of people use Rotella & never had a problem in any bike.I even used in in my high reving Kawasaki 454 for 50000 k.I put 35000 k on my G.Z. using Rotella-T.................Question....Are you sure you not a tad over full??
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:17 PM   #14
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Strange........A lot of people use Rotella & never had a problem in any bike.I even used in in my high reving Kawasaki 454 for 50000 k.I put 35000 k on my G.Z. using Rotella-T.................Question....Are you sure you not a tad over full??
I guess it was possible, it also wasn't broken in as it only had like 2800 miles on it
Now that I am up to 7000 it won't hurt to try it again.
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:16 PM   #15
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Ok... I bought a non running bike that I don't know how it was ridden for the first 15,600 miles of it's life. I ran it for what... like 6 weeks with their oil.
For all I know the clutch wasn't in the best of shape and it's worn.....
I switch to the aforementioned Rotella and I get a little tiny bit of clutch slip. Perhaps my clutch was on the edge of failure? I dunno...
I'm just saying as I look at the previous owners receipts is Rotella may add a little tiny bit more slip over what they were using.
*Suzuki specific motorcycle oil*
Doesn't mean Rotella isn't a good brand...
I'm sticking with Rotella for now and if I have to I will throw a set of frictions at it if need be.

Don't be so defensive guys. I only state the facts of my personal situation.
I'm here to learn. Perhaps my clutch was about to fail anywho.



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Old 06-03-2015, 10:28 PM   #16
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Ok... I bought a non running bike that I don't know how it was ridden for the first 15,600 miles of it's life. I ran it for what... like 6 weeks with their oil.
For all I know the clutch wasn't in the best of shape and it's worn.....
I switch to the aforementioned Rotella and I get a little tiny bit of clutch slip. Perhaps my clutch was on the edge of failure? I dunno...
I'm just saying as I look at the previous owners receipts is Rotella may add a little tiny bit more slip over what they were using.
*Suzuki specific motorcycle oil*
Doesn't mean Rotella isn't a good brand...
I'm sticking with Rotella for now and if I have to I will throw a set of frictions at it if need be.

Don't be so defensive guys. I only state the facts of my personal situation.
I'm here to learn. Perhaps my clutch was about to fail anywho.
Have you gone throught the entire clutch adjustment procedure correctly? Starting with the clutch rod adjustment and working your way up to the lever. Just a thought.
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Old 06-03-2015, 10:43 PM   #17
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Nah. This was just a 1 day prior to two days post comparison. I definitely need to pursue more detailed adjustment of the clutch. I don't know the details of the 'rod adjustment'
The clutches I've worked with have mainly had a lever mechanism that pulled on the outside plate using the clutch cable/arm/assy and not a rod push mechanism.
My observations weight were merely based on current condition of bike and the transition over 24 to 48 hours. I assume wear and tear in that short a time frame is trivial at best.

On the plus side I will be able to dump some more money on this ride soon. New brake pads front and rear, etc etc.

I'm really starting to have some fun with this 8D
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Old 06-03-2015, 10:53 PM   #18
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Nah. This was just a 1 day prior to two days post comparison. I definitely need to pursue more detailed adjustment of the clutch. I don't know the details of the 'rod adjustment'
The clutches I've worked with have mainly had a lever mechanism that pulled on the outside plate using the clutch cable/arm/assy and not a rod push mechanism.
My observations weight were merely based on current condition of bike and the transition over 24 to 48 hours. I assume wear and tear in that short a time frame is trivial at best.

On the plus side I will be able to dump some more money on this ride soon. New brake pads front and rear, etc etc.

I'm really starting to have some fun with this 8D
Some one will be along shortly to explain the rod adjustment. I am not that familiar with the GZ clutch stuff. But I can do it on a Vstrom 650. Piece of cake.
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:17 PM   #19
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Well crud. The slipping clutch has gotten excessive. A gradual degradation starting at the oil change. I'm looking at a clutch job soon. Adjustments are as per service manual.
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