Brake advice to cure my insanity

itsagz250butitsmine · 06-08-2016, 07:21 PM

Hello guys, I've been lurking a while and got a lot of helpful advice and info from all of you already that saved me crazy amounts of time and money. I want to say thank you to the community. Anyway, I decided to join to ask a question that I wasn't able to find an answer for. I got this bike that was neglected and fixed everything except the rear brake. The brake would drag and not spring back like it should so I disassembled the brake and cleaned everything inside and out, greased pin and all contact points of movable parts. After re-assembly it's was finally springing back like it should by itself with me helping it. However, it has a hard time pulling the brake cable back with it unless I give it a little bit of help. I already disconnected both sides of the brake cable and was able to drip a very thin oil down the whole thing until it came out of the other side and kept working the cable back and forth to make sure the oil got everywhere. Anyway, it still can't pull the cable back by itself. My question is what the heck do I do because I'm not sure if the cable is supposed to have a little friction, or its fine, or if the brake shoe springs are too weak, or its fine. Sorry for the novel I just tried to provide the most complete information as I know how valuable that is.

Thanks guys

Water Warrior 2 · 06-09-2016, 02:00 AM

I don't have a GZ anymore to check for sure but I think there is supposed to be a spring up front on the brake pedal to return it to a brake free position. Some one can correct me if I am wrong and I won't be insulted.

The springs in the rear hub are just there to hold the shoes in place and pull them in to release the braking effect.

alantf · 06-09-2016, 05:55 AM

Just been and checked. There's a coil spring (3 or 4 turns of thick wire) that fits on the brake pedal shaft. Check that it's not broken, or that the ends that push the pedal aren't broken. You shouldn't be able to move the spring by hand if it's tortioned up ok. Press the brake pedal and see if the spring is pushing the pedal back up.

itsagz250butitsmine · 06-09-2016, 08:43 AM

Thanks for the quick response, however I think that this was the one thing I left out. The brake pedal does spring back, but the cable does not so there is slack between the cable and the pedal after the brake is activated the cable stays in the same position, but brake pedal comes back. At this point I want to fill a pool with wd-40 and throw the bike in there ��

5th_bike · 06-09-2016, 09:47 PM

The manual says to use motor oil to lubricate the brake cable.

The best way to do it: take a ziplock bag and cut a tiny corner off, such that the cable just fits through. Then, tape the point of the bag around the cable. Then pour some oil in the bag and wait until it appears at the other end (this tip is from a former member called Easy Rider, he was technically very knowledgeable, but was unfortunately banned by some jerk admin for not being very easy on his fellow forum members, to put it mildly).

If that doesn't help, a new rear brake cable is less than $50.

itsagz250butitsmine · 06-09-2016, 10:13 PM

This sounds like a really McGyver-y type of idea and also one that Is crazy enough to work. I can't wait to try this out when I get a minute. If this works I will grant you fake internet points that don't mean anything!

spldart · 06-10-2016, 06:55 AM

There is a possibility your cable has started fraying inside the housing.
If all else fails then this becomes kinda likely.
Only fix for that is new or used replacement.
So after you try everything above then perhaps a motorcycle boneyard
may be in your future.

Vegas Street Rider · 06-13-2016, 05:08 PM

You might toy with the idea of replacing the front sprocket (15 tooth) with a 16t. It will lower your rpms at the higher speeds and you might get a little more top end speed. I reach close to 75 mph and I am 6 ft and 170. It increased my mileage as well. The best I have done is about 80mpg with mostly 45 to 50 mph commuting.

itsagz250butitsmine · 06-14-2016, 12:45 AM

I have read about this mod on here, Im just afraid that it won't have the strength to pull it since the bike slows to 55mph on a very slight incline as it stands now, I'm afraid it might make it worse. The only thing I could think of to make it go faster is to set the idle noticeably higher and pull the slack in the throttle cable to get the most that this engine is capable of. I don't know I wish there was a fellow gz rider that was somewhat local that could just say "this is your problem." I have a feeling that the valves just need adjustment maybe. I'm trying to fit that in my schedule , along with sea foam to possibly prevent backfiring after shutting off a hot engine.

spldart · 06-15-2016, 09:25 PM

A) Increasing you idle doesn't help your speed on the road. Leave it at 1500 rpm.
B) If you think you brake is dragging then take it out for a 4 mile spin then pull back in to your driveway.
Carefully feel the rear hub. Is it burning crazy hot? You got a problem. Is it just a bit warm. Your fine.
C) It's been my experience the last tiny bit of carb throttle movement makes little difference in top
end speed. Leave a little tiny slack so turning the bars full lock doesn't change your idle speed.

06-08-2016, 07:21 PM	#1
itsagz250butitsmine Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: NY, NY Posts: 10	Brake advice to cure my insanity Hello guys, I've been lurking a while and got a lot of helpful advice and info from all of you already that saved me crazy amounts of time and money. I want to say thank you to the community. Anyway, I decided to join to ask a question that I wasn't able to find an answer for. I got this bike that was neglected and fixed everything except the rear brake. The brake would drag and not spring back like it should so I disassembled the brake and cleaned everything inside and out, greased pin and all contact points of movable parts. After re-assembly it's was finally springing back like it should by itself with me helping it. However, it has a hard time pulling the brake cable back with it unless I give it a little bit of help. I already disconnected both sides of the brake cable and was able to drip a very thin oil down the whole thing until it came out of the other side and kept working the cable back and forth to make sure the oil got everywhere. Anyway, it still can't pull the cable back by itself. My question is what the heck do I do because I'm not sure if the cable is supposed to have a little friction, or its fine, or if the brake shoe springs are too weak, or its fine. Sorry for the novel I just tried to provide the most complete information as I know how valuable that is. Thanks guys Login or Register to Remove Ads
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06-09-2016, 05:55 AM	#3
alantf Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tenerife (Spain) Posts: 3,715	Just been and checked. There's a coil spring (3 or 4 turns of thick wire) that fits on the brake pedal shaft. Check that it's not broken, or that the ends that push the pedal aren't broken. You shouldn't be able to move the spring by hand if it's tortioned up ok. Press the brake pedal and see if the spring is pushing the pedal back up. __________________ By birth an Englishman, by the grace of God a Yorkshireman. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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06-09-2016, 09:47 PM	#5
5th_bike Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: HoCo, Maryland Posts: 1,349	The manual says to use motor oil to lubricate the brake cable. The best way to do it: take a ziplock bag and cut a tiny corner off, such that the cable just fits through. Then, tape the point of the bag around the cable. Then pour some oil in the bag and wait until it appears at the other end (this tip is from a former member called Easy Rider, he was technically very knowledgeable, but was unfortunately banned by some jerk admin for not being very easy on his fellow forum members, to put it mildly). If that doesn't help, a new rear brake cable is less than $50. __________________ 2005 "Saturn Black", stock + tach Login or Register to Remove Ads
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06-14-2016, 12:45 AM	#9
itsagz250butitsmine Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: NY, NY Posts: 10	I have read about this mod on here, Im just afraid that it won't have the strength to pull it since the bike slows to 55mph on a very slight incline as it stands now, I'm afraid it might make it worse. The only thing I could think of to make it go faster is to set the idle noticeably higher and pull the slack in the throttle cable to get the most that this engine is capable of. I don't know I wish there was a fellow gz rider that was somewhat local that could just say "this is your problem." I have a feeling that the valves just need adjustment maybe. I'm trying to fit that in my schedule , along with sea foam to possibly prevent backfiring after shutting off a hot engine. Last edited by itsagz250butitsmine; 06-14-2016 at 12:47 AM. Reason: I just realized I hijacked my own thread haha
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06-09-2016, 02:00 AM	#2
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	I don't have a GZ anymore to check for sure but I think there is supposed to be a spring up front on the brake pedal to return it to a brake free position. Some one can correct me if I am wrong and I won't be insulted. The springs in the rear hub are just there to hold the shoes in place and pull them in to release the braking effect.
	0

06-09-2016, 08:43 AM	#4
itsagz250butitsmine Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: NY, NY Posts: 10	Thanks for the quick response, however I think that this was the one thing I left out. The brake pedal does spring back, but the cable does not so there is slack between the cable and the pedal after the brake is activated the cable stays in the same position, but brake pedal comes back. At this point I want to fill a pool with wd-40 and throw the bike in there ��
	0

06-09-2016, 10:13 PM	#6
itsagz250butitsmine Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: NY, NY Posts: 10	This sounds like a really McGyver-y type of idea and also one that Is crazy enough to work. I can't wait to try this out when I get a minute. If this works I will grant you fake internet points that don't mean anything!
	0

06-10-2016, 06:55 AM	#7
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	There is a possibility your cable has started fraying inside the housing. If all else fails then this becomes kinda likely. Only fix for that is new or used replacement. So after you try everything above then perhaps a motorcycle boneyard may be in your future.
	0

06-13-2016, 05:08 PM	#8
Vegas Street Rider Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 1,089	You might toy with the idea of replacing the front sprocket (15 tooth) with a 16t. It will lower your rpms at the higher speeds and you might get a little more top end speed. I reach close to 75 mph and I am 6 ft and 170. It increased my mileage as well. The best I have done is about 80mpg with mostly 45 to 50 mph commuting.
	0

06-15-2016, 09:25 PM	#10
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	A) Increasing you idle doesn't help your speed on the road. Leave it at 1500 rpm. B) If you think you brake is dragging then take it out for a 4 mile spin then pull back in to your driveway. Carefully feel the rear hub. Is it burning crazy hot? You got a problem. Is it just a bit warm. Your fine. C) It's been my experience the last tiny bit of carb throttle movement makes little difference in top end speed. Leave a little tiny slack so turning the bars full lock doesn't change your idle speed.
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