Break in

CMS · 04-02-2008, 01:52 PM

I've finally been able to ride,we got a break in the weather and I took advantage. The bike is still in the break in peroid and I've been reading the recomendations. Currently have 63 miles on the clock, an oil/filter change will take place on or prior to 100 miles. The first 100 miles or so is more important than I thought, I will change again [oil/filter] around 300 miles, and the same at 600. I've always followed my dealer instructions and changed oil/filter, [ once] at no more than 600 miles. Never had a problem but I'm going to do this one different. Overkill ? not sure, but I don't think it will hurt. /// CMS

Water Warrior 2 · 04-02-2008, 10:43 PM

Sounds like a pretty small investment for peace of mind IMO. Will you be using synthetic oil eventually or just stick with dino juice ??

CMS · 04-03-2008, 08:27 AM

I agree oil changes and filters are much cheaper than engine rebuilds and or replacement. I've always used the Dino juice, probably will continue. I need to research that topic a little more before I make up my mind. [small mind, takes awhile to change it] :lol: In my past life, my smaller {cc] bikes could get a little warm. Im not convinced the synthetic oil holds up under extreme heat, but that was years ago and I know modern progess has come a long way. CMS

Water Warrior 2 · 04-03-2008, 12:24 PM

Just curious, what Dino juice do you intend to use ??

CMS · 04-03-2008, 02:44 PM

I've used mainly Suzuki 's brand, purchased from my dealer. May not be the best ,but close by. What would you recommend on the 250 and 650? CMS :cool:

**jonathan180iq** · 04-03-2008, 03:50 PM

In my experience synthetic holds up better under those heat conditions that tradional oil does. That's actually where it shines.
The difference in gear box operation alone will keep me from ever going back.

Your break-in might be a little bit overboard but it can't hurt.

CMS · 04-04-2008, 08:14 AM

I've read other posts that agree with you on the smooth shifting, my minds not made up yet, but I may start this bike with synthetic after the break in. What brand of synthetic do you use? CMS :cool:

**jonathan180iq** · 04-04-2008, 08:40 AM

I currently have Castrol Syntec in there. It hasn't really broken down yet and I'm about half-way through my oil change miles.
Over the next few oil changes I'll be trying different brands to see if there is something surperior to the others. But, I have no reason to complain with Castrol. It will be purely experimental. Mobil1 may be the "best" but it's also expensive and performance can't be that much better than the cheaper synthetic stuff.

There is a how-to on changing the oil in that section. There are some important notes about friction inhibitors, if you go with autmotive oil.

Water Warrior 2 · 04-04-2008, 12:45 PM

Currently we use Amsoil 20-50 M/C specific oil in both bikes. Did have 10-40 in them with good results. The 20-50 Amsoil label says it has shear characteristics of a #90 weight gear oil. That is a great oil to have in our gear boxes. Sadly I do not recall hearing /reading about specific shear characteristics in other oils. A good Dino oil that a lot of Strom riders use is Shell Rotella 15-40. It is a diesel oil that works very well in bikes. It has a good additive package that works well in most engines.
Synthetics are generally better all around with the exception of the cost. Shell Rotella Synthetic, Mobil 1, Amsoil, come to mind. They will withstand heat better and take longer to break down due to shear forces.
My actual experience with synthetics is pretty much limited to Amsoil in cages and bikes. The rest is what I read from forums and actual test results posted. My 07 Ranger will be switched over to Amsoil bumper to bumper in the hopefully near future and Mobil 1 is in the engine because it is more readily available and is changed on a regular basis. From experience with 4x4 drive trains Amsoil is very cost effective and performs well in hot and cold temps(Canadian prairies at 50 below). Hmm, I am getting off topic a bit. Oh well, old folks do that a lot.
Probably just changing oil on a regular basis and never using oils with molifiers(energy saving oils) will keep your bike happy as a clam for years of riding. Will shut up now.

CMS · 04-04-2008, 02:35 PM

Thanks Jonathan and Water Warrior, great info, I 'll let you know as soon as I get the break in over with, as to which way I go and the brand. Thanks again. :rawk: CMS

04-02-2008, 01:52 PM	#1
CMS Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Southern Ohio Posts: 146	Break in I've finally been able to ride,we got a break in the weather and I took advantage. The bike is still in the break in peroid and I've been reading the recomendations. Currently have 63 miles on the clock, an oil/filter change will take place on or prior to 100 miles. The first 100 miles or so is more important than I thought, I will change again [oil/filter] around 300 miles, and the same at 600. I've always followed my dealer instructions and changed oil/filter, [ once] at no more than 600 miles. Never had a problem but I'm going to do this one different. Overkill ? not sure, but I don't think it will hurt. /// CMS __________________ You can never have enough motocycles 2017 Yamaha R -3 White 2013 Suzuki GW250 Black FSSNOC # 4953 Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

04-03-2008, 08:27 AM	#3
CMS Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Southern Ohio Posts: 146	Oil I agree oil changes and filters are much cheaper than engine rebuilds and or replacement. I've always used the Dino juice, probably will continue. I need to research that topic a little more before I make up my mind. [small mind, takes awhile to change it] :lol: In my past life, my smaller {cc] bikes could get a little warm. Im not convinced the synthetic oil holds up under extreme heat, but that was years ago and I know modern progess has come a long way. CMS __________________ You can never have enough motocycles 2017 Yamaha R -3 White 2013 Suzuki GW250 Black FSSNOC # 4953 Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

04-03-2008, 02:44 PM	#5
CMS Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Southern Ohio Posts: 146	oil I've used mainly Suzuki 's brand, purchased from my dealer. May not be the best ,but close by. What would you recommend on the 250 and 650? CMS :cool: __________________ You can never have enough motocycles 2017 Yamaha R -3 White 2013 Suzuki GW250 Black FSSNOC # 4953 Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

04-04-2008, 08:14 AM	#7
CMS Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Southern Ohio Posts: 146	Oil I've read other posts that agree with you on the smooth shifting, my minds not made up yet, but I may start this bike with synthetic after the break in. What brand of synthetic do you use? CMS :cool: __________________ You can never have enough motocycles 2017 Yamaha R -3 White 2013 Suzuki GW250 Black FSSNOC # 4953
	0

04-04-2008, 02:35 PM	#10
CMS Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Southern Ohio Posts: 146	Synthetic oil Thanks Jonathan and Water Warrior, great info, I 'll let you know as soon as I get the break in over with, as to which way I go and the brand. Thanks again. :rawk: CMS __________________ You can never have enough motocycles 2017 Yamaha R -3 White 2013 Suzuki GW250 Black FSSNOC # 4953
	0

04-02-2008, 10:43 PM	#2
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Sounds like a pretty small investment for peace of mind IMO. Will you be using synthetic oil eventually or just stick with dino juice ??
	0

04-03-2008, 12:24 PM	#4
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Just curious, what Dino juice do you intend to use ??
	0

04-03-2008, 03:50 PM	#6
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	In my experience synthetic holds up better under those heat conditions that tradional oil does. That's actually where it shines. The difference in gear box operation alone will keep me from ever going back. Your break-in might be a little bit overboard but it can't hurt.
	0

04-04-2008, 08:40 AM	#8
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	I currently have Castrol Syntec in there. It hasn't really broken down yet and I'm about half-way through my oil change miles. Over the next few oil changes I'll be trying different brands to see if there is something surperior to the others. But, I have no reason to complain with Castrol. It will be purely experimental. Mobil1 may be the "best" but it's also expensive and performance can't be that much better than the cheaper synthetic stuff. There is a how-to on changing the oil in that section. There are some important notes about friction inhibitors, if you go with autmotive oil.
	0

04-04-2008, 12:45 PM	#9
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Currently we use Amsoil 20-50 M/C specific oil in both bikes. Did have 10-40 in them with good results. The 20-50 Amsoil label says it has shear characteristics of a #90 weight gear oil. That is a great oil to have in our gear boxes. Sadly I do not recall hearing /reading about specific shear characteristics in other oils. A good Dino oil that a lot of Strom riders use is Shell Rotella 15-40. It is a diesel oil that works very well in bikes. It has a good additive package that works well in most engines. Synthetics are generally better all around with the exception of the cost. Shell Rotella Synthetic, Mobil 1, Amsoil, come to mind. They will withstand heat better and take longer to break down due to shear forces. My actual experience with synthetics is pretty much limited to Amsoil in cages and bikes. The rest is what I read from forums and actual test results posted. My 07 Ranger will be switched over to Amsoil bumper to bumper in the hopefully near future and Mobil 1 is in the engine because it is more readily available and is changed on a regular basis. From experience with 4x4 drive trains Amsoil is very cost effective and performs well in hot and cold temps(Canadian prairies at 50 below). Hmm, I am getting off topic a bit. Oh well, old folks do that a lot. Probably just changing oil on a regular basis and never using oils with molifiers(energy saving oils) will keep your bike happy as a clam for years of riding. Will shut up now.
	0