More idling issues..... - Page 2

TrevorG · 04-25-2014, 10:58 AM

Yes, the choke lever should NOT snap back into place. When you pull it towards you to engage the choke, it should stay in place until you manually push it back.

**jonathan180iq** · 04-25-2014, 11:09 AM

The choke and the clutch are two completely independent things. You do not HAVE to pull in the clutch to engage the choke lever.

Secondly, and to reiterate, if your choke is snapping back into place on it's own, then it is messed up. It should hold whatever position you put it in. Time to pull it apart and fix it.

osborne · 04-25-2014, 12:41 PM

I understand and agree Jon.......the choke and clutch are two independent things. But........with the clutch safety lock out on these bikes te clutch lever must be pulled back to start the bike. My point was that operating the choke while also pulling in the clutch {at least in the current state on my bike} is difficult at best. The "current state" in this case being the choke lever snapping back to the forward position. I'll open it up and have a look but from the feel of it there must be a fairly strong spring somewhere in the choke mechanism causing this to return so forcefully.

TrevorG · 04-25-2014, 12:55 PM

I just had my choke mechanism pulled out last night. There is a spring in there. Maybe yours somehow got stretched out, causing it to return more forcefully? Maybe see if you can compress it. I checked my bike this morning before work looking for some sort of tension adjustment on the lever itself and couldn't find anything. It may be inside the actual housing for the hand grip control though.

osborne · 04-25-2014, 01:03 PM

thanks Trev.....I'll open it up in a bit and have a look.

osborne · 05-05-2014, 08:57 AM

ok.......Ive gone through the carb 6 times at least. New needle and seat....new O-rings......checked and cleaned all three jet screws thoroughly. She starts up and runs fine at a high idle for about 5 minutes, then the idle will fall off and she wants to stall. I can keep it running by throttling up for a bit but eventually she does stall and then wont start for several hours. I've checked gas flow to the carb and its fine. Seems that once it warms up it dies out. Been working this bug for a few weeks. New, high test gas btw. Any suggestions would be appreciated .

raul10141964 · 05-05-2014, 09:54 AM

check the valves if they are to tried will stay open when the engine is hot

osborne · 05-05-2014, 10:52 AM

Sorry....."tried"? And how would I check them?

osborne · 05-06-2014, 12:21 PM

P1010004.jpg

P1010008.jpg

P1010009.jpg

Ive read in a few threads here about an air line leading to the back of the air box needing to be closed off. Ive attached 3 pics to this post. can someone tell me if this is the line needing closing off please?

Water Warrior 2 · 05-06-2014, 03:50 PM

The air line that needs to be closed off is located near the bottom of the frame. It should have a factory plug in it and is only removed to drain mung and stuff from the bottom of the air box. If it is not plugged you will allow unfiltered air to be drawn up the tube directly to the carb and into the engine.
For those who don't know yet: the air box is a sealed unit and the airflow is reversed compared to most engine configurations. The air flow is from the inside of the filter to the outside of the filter into the air box and on to the carb/engine.
Cutting an opening in the air box for better flow is a big no-no. The air will then bypass the filter entirely and shorten engine life dramatically.

04-25-2014, 10:58 AM	#11
TrevorG Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Vancouver BC Posts: 29	Yes, the choke lever should NOT snap back into place. When you pull it towards you to engage the choke, it should stay in place until you manually push it back. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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04-25-2014, 12:41 PM	#13
osborne Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 46	I understand and agree Jon.......the choke and clutch are two independent things. But........with the clutch safety lock out on these bikes te clutch lever must be pulled back to start the bike. My point was that operating the choke while also pulling in the clutch {at least in the current state on my bike} is difficult at best. The "current state" in this case being the choke lever snapping back to the forward position. I'll open it up and have a look but from the feel of it there must be a fairly strong spring somewhere in the choke mechanism causing this to return so forcefully. __________________ Login or Register to Remove Ads
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04-25-2014, 01:03 PM	#15
osborne Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 46	thanks Trev.....I'll open it up in a bit and have a look. __________________ Login or Register to Remove Ads
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05-05-2014, 08:57 AM	#16
osborne Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 46	ok.......Ive gone through the carb 6 times at least. New needle and seat....new O-rings......checked and cleaned all three jet screws thoroughly. She starts up and runs fine at a high idle for about 5 minutes, then the idle will fall off and she wants to stall. I can keep it running by throttling up for a bit but eventually she does stall and then wont start for several hours. I've checked gas flow to the carb and its fine. Seems that once it warms up it dies out. Been working this bug for a few weeks. New, high test gas btw. Any suggestions would be appreciated . __________________
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05-05-2014, 10:52 AM	#18
osborne Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 46	Sorry....."tried"? And how would I check them? __________________
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04-25-2014, 11:09 AM	#12
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	The choke and the clutch are two completely independent things. You do not HAVE to pull in the clutch to engage the choke lever. Secondly, and to reiterate, if your choke is snapping back into place on it's own, then it is messed up. It should hold whatever position you put it in. Time to pull it apart and fix it.
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04-25-2014, 12:55 PM	#14
TrevorG Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Vancouver BC Posts: 29	I just had my choke mechanism pulled out last night. There is a spring in there. Maybe yours somehow got stretched out, causing it to return more forcefully? Maybe see if you can compress it. I checked my bike this morning before work looking for some sort of tension adjustment on the lever itself and couldn't find anything. It may be inside the actual housing for the hand grip control though.
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05-05-2014, 09:54 AM	#17
raul10141964 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Elkhart, Indiana Posts: 369	check the valves if they are to tried will stay open when the engine is hot
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05-06-2014, 12:21 PM	#19
osborne Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 46	P1010004.jpg P1010008.jpg P1010009.jpg Ive read in a few threads here about an air line leading to the back of the air box needing to be closed off. Ive attached 3 pics to this post. can someone tell me if this is the line needing closing off please? __________________ Last edited by osborne; 05-06-2014 at 12:32 PM.
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05-06-2014, 03:50 PM	#20
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	The air line that needs to be closed off is located near the bottom of the frame. It should have a factory plug in it and is only removed to drain mung and stuff from the bottom of the air box. If it is not plugged you will allow unfiltered air to be drawn up the tube directly to the carb and into the engine. For those who don't know yet: the air box is a sealed unit and the airflow is reversed compared to most engine configurations. The air flow is from the inside of the filter to the outside of the filter into the air box and on to the carb/engine. Cutting an opening in the air box for better flow is a big no-no. The air will then bypass the filter entirely and shorten engine life dramatically.
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