Install a 16 Tooth Front Sprocket

[3-D Video]

Originally Posted by alantf

..........Or did it have a 16 tooth to start with?........(did you count the teeth on the old one?)..........

Originally Posted by Purpledrank

its definitely 16t. I counted it when i bought it.

I think what Alan meant to say was, did you count the teeth on the old... sprocket?

[Purpledrank]

Originally Posted by 3-D Video

I think what Alan meant to say was, did you count the teeth on the old... sprocket?

I didn't check the old one, but side by side, the new one was a bit bigger.

So I rode to work today and noticed more of a difference, mainly in the higher gears (4th and 5th). It definitely sounds less violent as I approach 50 mph. I haven't attempted highway speeds yet. Also, now my brake pedal makes noise when I apply it about halfway...normal? or did I do something wrong?

[blaine]

Did you readjust the rear brake after putting on the new sprocket? The bigger sproket puts the rear wheel further forward requiring a small adjustment of the brake at the rear wheel.

:cool: :roll:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by blaine

The bigger sproket puts the rear wheel further forward requiring a small adjustment of the brake at the rear wheel.

True but my first impression from reading that is:
If you have enough travel in the rear brake pedal that you can tell "half way", then there probably is WAY too much travel.

It certainly would be worth while to get the back wheel off the ground and re-check the adjustment......including the pedal height adjustment up at the pedal........and finally the brake light switch.

While you're at it, recheck the chain slack and alignment. If you didn't have the back wheel all the way off, it's unlikely that there is anything drastically wrong.

[edit] Maybe a clarification is needed. It's somewhat unusual for a rider to say his brake PEDAL makes noise. Where does it sound like the noise is coming from ???

[Purpledrank]

Sorry, I dont mean the pedal, I mean the rear brake in general. It only makes noise while moving, so Im assuming it has to do with alignment of either the rear wheel or the brake. I DID notice last night, however, that the right side of the rear wheel was off by two notches compared to the left side. (Using the markings on the black bar) Could this have something to do with it?

edit: chainslack is fine, its set to what it always was. I think its more a matter of alignment, I just dont know whether its wheel alignment or brake alignment. :??:

[JWR]

Originally Posted by Purpledrank

Im assuming it has to do with alignment of either the rear wheel or the brake. I DID notice last night, however, that the right side of the rear wheel was off by two notches compared to the left side. (Using the markings on the black bar) Could this have something to do with it?

edit: chainslack is fine, its set to what it always was. I think its more a matter of alignment, I just dont know whether its wheel alignment or brake alignment. :??:

The side marks are there to line up the tire and wheel.
They must be equal the keep the tire and wheel straight.

[Water Warrior 2]

Time to start over a little bit. The notches will align the wheel as mentioned. If the wheel is not aligned the chain and sprockets will not be aligned and severe wear of parts will occur as well as a chance of the chain actually cllimbing off a sprocket. With the wheel aligned and chain slack correctly measured the next step is brake adjustment and brake light adjustment. The brake pedal should not go half way down as Easy cautioned earlier. 1 inch to 1.5 inches is a better distance of travel before braking occurs. You don't want to be extending your foot way down when it is not necessary. Also adjust the brake light to come on just a little bit before actual braking occurs. The owners manual actually has measurements for the pedal but most folks fudge them a little for personal comfort and travel. The pedal height can be adjusted first and then the brake rod to the rear wheel is adjusted to apply the brakes. This is done with a wing nut on the rear threaded portion of the rod. This in turn will move the lever on the brake drum to apply the braking forces.
Take your time and play with the brake peal with your hands. Sit beside the bike, move the pedal and watch which parts are moving and look for any adjustment fittings. Look at where the brake light switch is mounted and see how it works and determine how to adjust it when you are ready.
Hope I haven't thoroughly confused you. A bit jumbled but others can help straighten out my wording. I am sometimes accused of not playing with a full deck. :whistle:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Purpledrank

I DID notice last night, however, that the right side of the rear wheel was off by two notches compared to the left side. (Using the markings on the black bar) Could this have something to do with it?

Yes absolutely. Yet another reason that you should have a users manual (at least) before you go working on your bike. There is one available on here for download.

You failed to take those marks into consideration when you tightened things back up after the sprocket change. NOW you need to loosen the rear axle again and get those marks lined up......while paying attention to keeping the proper amount of slack in the chain.

AND THEN .......adjust the brake slack, pedal height and switch.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

I am sometimes accused of not playing with a full deck. :whistle:

Oh I think all the cards are there.......just that a couple of them are bent a bit !!! :shocked:

:crackup

[Water Warrior 2]

[quote=Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by "Water Warrior":1mx35kqc

I am sometimes accused of not playing with a full deck. :whistle:

Oh I think all the cards are there.......just that a couple of them are bent a bit !!! :shocked:

:crackup[/quote:1mx35kqc]
You may have something there. One for each ex-wife.