Valve adjustment for the GZ250

[5th_bike]

Originally Posted by kaput

cool, so the 2 in front are exhaust and 2 in back are intake.

Yes, our GZs actually have 4 valves. There are several web sites with "motorcycle specs" that maintain that GZ250s have two valves, even when informed otherwise.

It may seem beyond comprehension yet even THIS site is one of them...

[kaput]

Thanks Easy,
I appreciate your time and explanation. I will not argue the differences between my old vw and this little suzuki or express my feelings of "The Manual"

I am sure this will send me in the right direction.
thanks again,
-=kaput=-

[patrick_777]

Originally Posted by 5th_bike

It may seem beyond comprehension yet even THIS site is one of them...

Whatever do you mean?? :whistle:

[adrianinflorida]

Originally Posted by kaput

I HAVE downloaded the Manual and I can not find this information.

The procedure is on pages 2-4 thru 2-6 (Pages 19-21 if you're looking at the page numbers displayed in the PDF reader)


Below is the text, but USE THE MANUAL so that you can follow the diagrams calling specific parts out.

VALVE CLEARANCE
Inspect initially at 1 000 km (600 miles, 3 months) and every 5 000 km (3 000 miles, 15 months) there-after. INSPECTION
• Remove the front seat. (See p. 5-1.)
• Remove the fuel tank. (See p. 4-1.)
• Remove the cylinder head cover left cap
• Disconnect the spark plug cap and remove the spark plug. 09930-10121: Spark plug socket wrench set
Remove the valve inspection caps The valve clearance specification is different for intake and exhaust valves. Valve clearance adjustment must be checked and adjusted, 1) at the time of periodic inspection, 2) when the valve mechanism is serviced, and 3) when the camshaft is re-moved for servicing. Valve clearance (when cold): IN. : 0.03-0.08 mm (0.001-0.003 in) EX.: 0.08-0.13 mm (0.003-0.005 in) NOTE:
* The piston must be at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke in order to check or adjust the valve clearance.
* The valve clearance should only be checked when the engine is cold.
* Remove the valve timing inspection plugand generator cover cap
Rotate the crankshaft with a box wrench to set the piston at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke. (Rotate the crankshaft until the "T" lineon the generator rotor is aligned with the triangle markon the generator cover.) Insert a thickness gauge into the clearance between the valve stem end and the adjusting screw on the rocker arm. 09900-20803: Thickness gauge
If the clearance is out of specification, adjust it to specifica-tion as follows.

ADJUSTMENT The clearance is adjusted using the special tool and offset wrench.
• Loosen the locknuts
• Insert a thickness gauge between the valve stem end and the adjusting screwon the rocker arm.
• Adjust the valve clearance by turning the adjusting screw using the special tool while holding the locknuts
09917-14920: Valve adjuster wrench
CAUTION Both the right and left valve clearances should be as closely as possible.
• After the adjustment is completed, tighten the locknut se-curely.
• Rotate the crankshaft 720° with a box wrench and check that the clearance is within specification.

[kaput]

Thanks Adrian but I had that already. my real problem was finding the compression stroke.

I found it and confirmed it with my neighbor.

I got the "Special tool" wrench and adjusted the valves, took me about an hour but I think next time will be way quicker. I put them at midway in the specs and it is a bit Klacky but my Idle and Stalling problems are GONE! I think I may tighten them to minimum specs next weekend to get the noise down.

Bike also starts faster and the choke is not needed at all (here in sunny San Diego).

By the way, if anyone is scared to do this job, don't be intimidated. Its really not as hard as some folks may have you believe and is extremely beneficial.
:2tup:YOU CAN DO IT! :2tup:

The hardest part is getting a tool that will remove the generator cover cap and finding TDC on the compression stroke. (2 of the things the Manual does not cover)

-=HINTs=-
* I found the the compression stroke was easily found if you leave the spark plug in, you will feel resistance just before you hit TDC.
*Also the 2 valves in front are the Exhaust and the 2 in back are Intake

the rest is covered in the manual in the pages that Adrian quoted.

Thanks for the help and good luck to anyone trying this fairly easy job.
-=kaput=-

[5th_bike]

Originally Posted by patrick_777

Whatever do you mean?? :whistle:

:rawk: You FIXED it !!! :2tup: :banana:

[alanmcorcoran]

Maybe that's why my problems went away as well. Adjusting the valves was on of the things they said they did (the third time.)

[kaput]

:rawk: OH yeah! its my birthday :2tup:

Always a great feeling to do it yourself.
and you know it has been done correctly too.

I would be willing to bet $$$$ that was your problem alan.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by kaput

my Idle and Stalling problems are GONE

Glad everything went OK.

It is VERY rare for valves to be far enough out of adjustment so that it makes a noticeable difference in how the engine runs and performs. That difference "might be" just a coincidence.

If you really did get them set to the middle of the spec., you probably should leave them there......since having them too tight is MUCH more dangerous (to engine life) than too loose.

Since this was your first run doing the adjustments, it might be a good idea to check them again soon just to be sure they are set where you think they are. :2tup:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by kaput

I would be willing to bet $$$$ that was your problem alan.

I'll take that bet. How much? :biggrin:

A valve lash difference of .001-.003 inches will NOT affect engine operation enough so that you can notice; it just won't. NOW, if your valves were WAY out of adjustment, all bets are off.

Alan: Did they really mention valves on your LAST ticket? I don't remember you saying that.