Once upon a time......but not anymore.

I've seen several small batteries lately that have a nominal, no-load voltage at 12.4.

The built-in meter on both my Cub lawn mowers show those batteries down around 12.2 but I don't think I believe that; gotta get my digital down to the shed some day and double check them. I'll be shocked if they really do come out to 12.2......as they are working just fine.

The smaller batteries may be different, but isn't a fully charged wet cell 2.1 V? And the amp draw on the starters for those small engines is a lot less than the GZ so those batteries, even if not fully charged, may suffice to start the mower. Check them with a better meter like you said, or load test them, or if they work, don't screw with them, what's the difference and who cares, if it works? If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?

Yes, that's right for a "conventional" lead acid cell BUT the chemical composition is somewhat different these days, with the addition of things like calcium to the plates. I don't think the old hard and fast rule applies anymore. It is more about the current it is able to supply than the precise voltage.

DEAD ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.

Today on the way home from work she died. Absolutely no power in the battery. Not even enough to see the headlight. Tried to pop start it for several minutes with no luck. I called my father in law who came with his jumper cables. I jumped it off his battery (truck was off). I made it about a 1/4 mile and it died again. Jumped it again and made it another quarter mile before it died. Fortunately I was close to home and coasted in.

I put my meter on the battery and it was reading around 6Volts. I went down to my local shop and asked him about getting a new battery. He told me its more likely my charging system and not the battery. He stated that once the bike got running it should be charging the battery to the point where it will at least keep the engine running. He thinks my stator is shot.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH this is annoying.
Im charging the battery again and going to check it with my meter again.

yep, just like an alternator in a auto. when it goes bad, you run off the battery till it dies, then nothing

If it won't stay running after you HAVE it running, and going a decent speed, it does sound like your stator is shot.

Unfortunately, it's around $300.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products ... tator-assy

Once more with feeling............
After the battery is charged, disconnect the charger and let it sit for about an hour.
If the reading at that point is below 12 volts, then the battery is BAD.
If it is above 12, note the reading; that is your reference voltage.

Put it back in the bike; start it up.
Check the voltage again; if it is above your reference voltage noted above AND never goes below that reference figure at any RPM......then your charging system likely is OK, since it is always putting at least a slight charge into the battery.

If the voltage while running goes below your reference, then the charging system is kapoot.

If it does NOT go below your reference, then something else is making the battery lose power......like the battery itself or a loose connection or a partial short.

Check now to see if it is charging.I betting you have intermitting loose connection in your headlight bucket causing your bike to only charge sometimes.

i think my meter might be a bit off too:
I just checked my Jeep to see what it reads
15.6 Volts not running
16.8 Volts Running
Seems high to me

That's the understatement of the month.
That would mean that your bike battery actually has a voltage of about 10.8 V.; NOT GOOD.
You DO have it set for DC, don't you ??

VDC 20

You said in a previous post that " I got a multimeter today. battery was fully charged and it was sitting at around 12.17 Volts Fired up the bike and it jumped to 13.6 Volts. Guess this means the charging system is working..... Now I guess i need to run it till it dies again and check the battery with the meter.."

You have a bad battery.
Of course the guy in the battery shop wants to blame it on your charging system without even looking at the battery.
Do what I told you before -- Charge it up all the way, bring it in for a load test and see if it's any good.
If you get another battery, just make sure it's charged fully, by you. before you use it.
Simple things first, in order, that's how you go about solving a problem. You never had that battery tested. Your voltmeter is not a load tester.
Or, if you want, go rip the bike apart looking for something else. Until you eliminate the battery as the problem, and you haven't yet, you will be spinning your wheels, not those of your GZ.

forgot to update this a while back....

Bike is all fixed...

Battery was fine...

New Stator and new rectifier was needed.

Total repair $235.00

Runs super now.

Great.Thanks for the update,I thought it was charging related rather than battery.Good luck.

Glad to hear you are back on the road. Kinda figured you rectifier was cooked. Your symptoms were identical to mine. Take care