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Not enough space between brake pads
I am installing new pads. After I place both of them inside the caliper, they are pretty much touching each other and there is absolutely no space to squeeze the disc in-between them. I am guessing the caliper cylinder has contracted. How do I make space for the disc?
The manual says not to touch the brake lever while the pads are out, and I followed that. Do I need to release some brake fluid through the air bleeder valve the make the caliper expand? Thanks. |
Re: Not enough space between brake pads
The brake caliper piston adjusts to accommodate the decreasing width of the brake pads. I have used a c-clamp to compress the cylinder to make room for the new (and thicker) brake pads. I also put a rag between the clamp and the calipers.
Bill |
Re: Not enough space between brake pads
I've used a c-clamp on vehicles but not bikes but its the same principle and works good. Tighten it a little then give it a minutes for the pressure to back off then turn a little more till you get the space you need. I always leave the old pad on the caliper doing that too so it wont go back in at an angle.
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Re: Not enough space between brake pads
Got it done. Had to release brake fluid from the system to be able to squeeze the piston back in. I did complete brake bleed afterwards. However, many times when I come to a stop now, I hear a strange rumbling sound coming from the front brakes. It's not squeak. It's more like a vibration. It even continues after I release the brake lever. Any idea what it could be?
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Just make sure one of the pads did not get installed backwards.
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You need to get the front wheel off the ground and spin it to see what is going on. Did you put a dab of grease on the guide pins ?? Could just be the new pads need wearing in a bit but I wouldn't ignore it completely. They might be dragging and that would be bad. Quote:
NO, don't go spraying any kind of lube anywhere near the brake assembly. On most, you can get to the guide pins without taking anything apart; don't remember about the GZ for sure. Then you only need an amount of hi-temp grease about equivalent to two or three DROPS of oil. Be very careful not to get the grease on anything else by accident. And just to re-inforce........you need to inspect things FIRST. When troubleshooting, one should not take wild guesses as to what the problem is ......nor should you take a shotgun approach to applying a fix. If at all possible, you need to pinpoint the problem first before you "fix" anything. |
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Thanks guys. I'm still a noob at all these things. I'm really glad this forum exists.
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Also, would white lithium grease work on these pins, assuming that's what the problem is? Or is that not "hi-temp"?
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Just a touch, like from a Q-tip that has been wiped off, should be OK just to verify and pin-point the problem though. |
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The only thing I was able to find at the local AceHardware was SuperLube synthetic multi-purpose grease. Says it's good up to 450F. Maybe I'll keep looking...
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The stuff you mentioned wouldn't be good for a race bike on the track......but it should be OK for you and me. |
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Got it greased up, but it's still making the noise. Maybe it just needs some time for the pads to break in. When I lift the front wheel, it spins fine.
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They are OEM pads I got from cheapcycleparts.com. It doesn't sound like they are slightly rubbing against rotors (that's a separate sound). It sounds like they're vibrating in the calipers or something... hard to describe.
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No. Was I supposed to?
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That's what I meant ''Anti squeal shims'' and yes the G.Z. has them. |
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Yeah, now that you mentioned it, it does seem kind of obvious. They were sitting on the old pads, but not on the new pads that I bought. Thankfully I still have the old pads (although they were already sitting in the trash bin).
Since the service manual didn't mention anything about these shims, I didn't think much of it. |
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Looks like installing these shims has made the noises go away.
Thanks everyone for educating the poor noob. |
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