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Originally Posted by mrlmd1
You can order all the parts you want, but you don't listen to advice, and that is much cheaper.
It could be the starter switch, or it could be the starter relay or solenoid, or the wiring or a dirty or loose connection, like I said before. So, if you don't test the relay and you buy a new switch, and it still doesn't work, what are you going to do next? Buy a new relay? Unless you test everything down the line from battery to starter in a step-wise and systematic fashion, you are just guessing at what to replace next. You already bought and replaced a new starter for no reason, so how much money do you want to waste until you hit on the faulty part totally by accident? If you keep replacing unnecessary parts, it would be much cheaper in the long run to just bring it to a mechanic and let him do it.
Find the starter relay and check the voltage on the 2 low voltage (12V) terminals on the relay when you hit the start button (with the ignition key on, the Run switch on, the clutch in, etc.). If you get 12V there, there is nothing wrong with that starter button or switch. If you hit the start button, that relay should click. If it doesn't, and you have 12V there, then the relay is bad or stuck. If it does click, then measure the voltage at the 2 heavy wire terminals leading out of the relay, you should get 12V when you hit the start button. If you get nothing, then short out the connections on the 2 heavy wires leading to the starter motor (use a pair of pliers or heavy screwdriver, not a light piece of wire). If the bike starts, at least that tells you the relay may be the problem and the wiring from there to the starter motor is intact. If you tap on the relay and then it clicks and starts that may tell you it's no good because it was stuck and needs replacement, and your tapping on the starter motor could have jiggled that loose so it worked once or twice.
If you don't want to fuss with the relay you could check the starter button first by temporarily bypassing it, by replacing it in the line with the other switch you used - jump from the battery through your new switch to the low voltage contacts on the starter relay and not to the starter motor itself. If the bike starts, then, and only then is the starter switch the problem. Right now you are just guessing and wasting your time and money on parts you may not need. Pretty soon, the bike will be brand new if you keep going at it like you are doing.
There is another possibility related to the starter but it no longer applies if you replaced it, and that is the old one could have been stuck with it's drive gear not working, but that's no longer the case because you replaced the starter with a new one and the bike started and ran OK. The problem is confined to either the starter button or the relay - the RUN switch is not the problem because the bike starts and runs when you bypass both the start button and the starter relay by jumping right to the starter. It would not run if that switch were bad.
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