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sportpsyc · 06-15-2008, 04:09 PM

Okay..here's the latest...hope your brain(s) aren't tired...

On to the relay: I first tried replacing the actual snap-in relay. No difference. I then put my multimeter on pins A (the entry point to the relay) and C (the other side of the diode), and got .7V, WITH THE FACTORY SIDE STAND SWITCH PLUGGED IN, and the button depressed. As soon as I released the stand switch button, it went to 0.0V--so it is working correctly. Just to see what it was doing with the bypass plug, I plugged it back in (the one with the wires twisted together), and A to C gave me 13.2V--basically a direct connection to the battery without the side stand diode. Okay, so next I tried each one in the system. Touching C (which we now know is hot)with one lead, I tried D and E. Got 12.5V. Touching F & G, the turn signal relay, I got something strange. Key on, I got .3V, and it went to 0.0V when I put the turn signal switch on--left or right.
So here's the thing. I can't help but wonder if this is a common ground issue, which was mentioned early on in this endeavor. The headlight grounds ultimately to the negative side of the battery. Most everything grounds to that main line. Here's the freaky thing. With the proper side stand switch plugged in, everything is dead--all lights, horn, everything. Dead. The moment I plug in the side-stand over-ride plug, everything works PERFECTLY. Until, of course, you put it in gear, at which point it all still works, but the blinkers blink fast. But everything else is still working--the headlight, the connection to the turn signals, the horn, brake light, etc.
Of course, after reading the wiring diagram, the relay would have to be working properly, because the neutral indicator light is working properly in ALL conditions, which means the relay would have to be working correctly since the neutral light is the first thing AFTER the relay, and is on it's own circuit. SO, after that, we start looking at where the neutral light grounds too. And thats where things get messy, because there are so many things commony grounded. Okay. Anybody see any flaws with my logic so far? I pulled the headlight out, and I don't see anything obvious. This whole crazy nonesense of things working "better" with the override plug in has really got me baffled. I am up for round two of suggestions! :-) THanks everybody--I can't tell you how much I appreciate the advice and support with this one....

06-15-2008, 04:09 PM	#7
sportpsyc Member Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 30	Okay..here's the latest...hope your brain(s) aren't tired... On to the relay: I first tried replacing the actual snap-in relay. No difference. I then put my multimeter on pins A (the entry point to the relay) and C (the other side of the diode), and got .7V, WITH THE FACTORY SIDE STAND SWITCH PLUGGED IN, and the button depressed. As soon as I released the stand switch button, it went to 0.0V--so it is working correctly. Just to see what it was doing with the bypass plug, I plugged it back in (the one with the wires twisted together), and A to C gave me 13.2V--basically a direct connection to the battery without the side stand diode. Okay, so next I tried each one in the system. Touching C (which we now know is hot)with one lead, I tried D and E. Got 12.5V. Touching F & G, the turn signal relay, I got something strange. Key on, I got .3V, and it went to 0.0V when I put the turn signal switch on--left or right. So here's the thing. I can't help but wonder if this is a common ground issue, which was mentioned early on in this endeavor. The headlight grounds ultimately to the negative side of the battery. Most everything grounds to that main line. Here's the freaky thing. With the proper side stand switch plugged in, everything is dead--all lights, horn, everything. Dead. The moment I plug in the side-stand over-ride plug, everything works PERFECTLY. Until, of course, you put it in gear, at which point it all still works, but the blinkers blink fast. But everything else is still working--the headlight, the connection to the turn signals, the horn, brake light, etc. Of course, after reading the wiring diagram, the relay would have to be working properly, because the neutral indicator light is working properly in ALL conditions, which means the relay would have to be working correctly since the neutral light is the first thing AFTER the relay, and is on it's own circuit. SO, after that, we start looking at where the neutral light grounds too. And thats where things get messy, because there are so many things commony grounded. Okay. Anybody see any flaws with my logic so far? I pulled the headlight out, and I don't see anything obvious. This whole crazy nonesense of things working "better" with the override plug in has really got me baffled. I am up for round two of suggestions! :-) THanks everybody--I can't tell you how much I appreciate the advice and support with this one....
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