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Old 07-21-2008, 10:17 PM   #11
Orpheus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easy Rider
Close but no cigar. I don't think the nut on the cable is meant to be an adjustment. As the quote from the manual says, the switch itself is actually mounted inside a big plastic sleeve with a "nut" formed on the front end.
The plastic nut is what I was talking about; sorry if I wasn't clear. I'm going to go look at it right now.

Edit:

Okay, I just went and looked at it and there isn't a plastic nut, but rather the sleeve that you're talking about. You can see it on the left side of the spring in this (blurry) pic:



That's what triggers when the light comes on. I needed to adjust it when I got a new spring due to the original one breaking. I'm not sure if you'll have to unattach the spring, then adjust it a little, then reattach it and see when it triggers, or if you can turn it while it's attached; I forget what I had to do.



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Old 07-22-2008, 05:57 AM   #12
Water Warrior 2
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Adjust the brake pedal first and then tackle the brake light switch. You will not need to remove the spring for adjustment. Ideally the brake light comes on before there is any actual braking effect. This will allow you to tell following drivers your intensions a bit sooner just by tapping the pedal before actually slowing down.
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Old 07-22-2008, 09:21 AM   #13
Easy Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orpheus
Okay, I just went and looked at it and there isn't a plastic nut, but rather the sleeve that you're talking about.

I'm not sure if you'll have to unattach the spring, then adjust it a little, then reattach it and see when it triggers, or if you can turn it while it's attached; I forget what I had to do.
OK, slightly different than what I remembered.....and the manual is spot on (I though it might have suffered in the translation)......you actually turn the body of the switch itself to make the adjustment.

You should NOT remove the spring, as that might cause new problems and if a couple of 1/2 turns one way or the other doesn't produce the desired result......you should pause a minute and study the situation. If the switch takes more than a slight adjustment, something ELSE may be out of whack (bent, loose, etc).

Good pic. BTW!
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Old 08-16-2008, 03:23 PM   #14
mcintyre_aerospace
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Iff that question has been solved, I have a new one about the back brake. I recently installed new brake shoes, and now theres a strange squeak. I found out that the two brake shoes have two springs that hold them together at top and bottom, and the brake engages by a flat piece of metal prising them apart. Upon further inspection I found that the springs were scraping against what looks like turbines on the inside of the drum on the wheel. After hours of trying to get the springs away from the turbines, I gave up and left it as is. Now I get about 3 to 6 squeals per every rotation of the tire. Has anyone else had this problem, if so is there a solution. Thanks for your help
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Old 08-16-2008, 07:34 PM   #15
Easy Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcintyre_aerospace
Now I get about 3 to 6 squeals per every rotation of the tire. Has anyone else had this problem, if so is there a solution. Thanks for your help
Oh crap....a mind is a terrible thing to waste!

I know I've heard that one before but don't remember the solution.
Is it possible that one (or both) of the springs is in upside down or backwards ??
Just a tiny position change will get them away from the (I think) cooling fins.

If you don't get this figured out in a few days, I know a Suzuki "expert" in another fourm who probably does know the answer.

P.S. Where are you located? (Fill out your profile ??)
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Old 08-19-2008, 12:42 PM   #16
mcintyre_aerospace
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Sorry, ill do that now, just kinda slipped my mind. Im glad this has happened before and can be fixed. Ill post updates as soon as possible.
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